Friday the 13th
5.10a/b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 276 votes
Routes in Nautilus
A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+ | |
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C | |
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R | |
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+ | |
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b | |
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Cupcake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5 | |
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c | |
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c | |
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b | |
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b | |
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R | |
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 | |
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b | |
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
In The Dark T V5 6C | |
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 | |
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b | |
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Lucky You T V6 7A | |
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+ | |
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a | |
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Octagon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c | |
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 | |
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a | |
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a | |
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
Republic, The V10 7C+ | |
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a | |
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4 | |
Shotgun Willy V5 6C | |
Sitdown Seam V3 6A | |
Slab Stealer T V4 6B | |
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b | |
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C | |
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a | |
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R | |
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+ | |
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c | |
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b | |
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Tempest V9 7C | |
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b | |
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a | |
Twinkle Toes V2 5+ | |
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5 | |
Unknown Mantle V2 5+ | |
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b | |
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A | |
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a | |
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b | |
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c | |
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+ | |
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a | |
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c | |
Unsorted Routes: |
Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
FA: | Todd Skinner & Paul Piana, ~1979-1981 |
Page Views: | 22,500 total, 114/month |
Shared By: | slevin on Aug 30, 2001 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki |
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Details
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Description
From the parking lot, listen for crowd noise, then follow this to the start of the route. Located at the far SE end of the Nautilus, Friday the 13th is tremendously popular (at least the 5.10a start) and for good reason. This climb takes the obvious L-facing corner just right of the deep chimney recess, through a large roof, then, higher, a second even larger (and much more challenging) roof.P1. The start is the crux, with several off-finger jams to contend with. After a short bit, the crack widens to hands, then fists for short little stretches. There is a 3-bolt chain anchor below the first roof from which many people slingshot toprope (don't hog the route though!). A 5.11- variation climbs left towards the chimney (good climbing) and a steep, hanging crack.
P2. If you want to climb the roof (5.11 something), continue through in one pitch. The initial moves are strenuous but secure, then rounding the lip requires a bit of go-for-it. Belay above in a recess at some fixed anchors.
P3. The final roof (hard 5.11) has a cool cut-your-feet-loose move, on technical thin jams.
This route gets early morning and mid afternoon shade. Truly a classic crack line!
Protection
The first pitch takes larger TCUs at the start up to a 3-4" cam (the upper part is a bit wider than it looks). The roof takes hand-size pieces. The upper roof requires large wireds, TCUs in addition to the gear you've brought for the bottom. One rope off from chains at top of the 5.10a part, and from above the first roof (good anchors). Descend from the top via the rap route climbers right, or search left for anchors down the chimney.Photos
37 Comments
Thanks for the comment
Slow down, you've reached your posting limit
Boulder, CO
Layne Kopischka used to bring high school PE classes from Laramie to Vedauwoo to toprope at the Nautilus. To make it in time, Layne would punch it in the bus from Laramie, run over to the Nautilus, and set up a toprope on the first part of Friday the 13th. He would usually fix some gear below the roof to make toproping and cleaning faster and easier. Eventually Layne installed some bolts below the roof for the same purpose. His students would toprope Friday up to the roof in their sneakers. Some of Wyoming's best climbers cut their teeth toproping from Layne's anchors on Friday. After a quick toprope, they would all pile into the bus and Layne would fly back down I-80 to Laramie. Bob Scarpelli says if anyone chops that anchor, he will kick their ass.
Unrelated but also important.
If you lost a #3 C4 at the Friday the 13th area a few weeks ago, let me know the markings on it, and I can return it to you. Jun 29, 2017
Fort Collins, CO
Spoiler for the third pitch gear:
Gear beta for the third pitch (bd sizes): #2, 0.5, 0.3, optional #1, #2. Once you pull the roof, it's 5.8. It looked flared and overhung from the ground, but it's really chill. You get 1-2 body lengths of completely horizontal climbing though. Apr 12, 2017
Colorado Springs
Laramie WY
Worcester, MA
P.S. I've been climbing in Vedauwoo a LONG time (since 1968). Oct 10, 2012
Vail
So, if you are not going to do all three pitches then you probably should not give the climb a grade.
Just saying.... Jun 4, 2012
Denver, CO
Westminster, Colorado
Laramie, WY
"Chopping" would be destructive and silly, the vast majority of climbers that get on this route only do the 10a pitch to the existing anchors. Apr 6, 2012
Colorado Springs, CO
Ft Collins, CO
Essex Junction, VT
It's sad to see this kind of stuff happen to a classic test piece. There are plenty of other good 10s in the area for folks to do. Adding an anchor in the middle of a 5.11 pitch so folks can do only the 10- section of the pitch or belay to break up the crux is free climbing blasphemy along with a very bad precedent to set. I guess there are a lot of folks that don't and won't understand that "old school" perspective. Having climbed in Vedauwoo for over 20 yrs & knowing the mentality from the past, I believe the previous generations of locals would not be in favor of this DAWG anchor!!
Unfortunately the rock and the route have been permanently altered, it's there now, I am sure many will use it and find it convient enough to try to justify it being there. Jun 29, 2009
Boulder
As far as replacing the chains I can't remember or comment on the quality of the belay since I have not been there in a few years, but if it is inadequate, I would support replacement (preferably by the locals if they deem necessary since the last thing I want to do is tell the locals up there what to do.) Jul 31, 2008
Laramie, WY
Boulder, CO
Whoever put the chains in below the first roof ought to be castrated: they have completely changed the nature of the route and should be removed. It used to be one of the great Veedauwoo test-pieces. Now it's just another overcrowded tick for people who people who climb on other people's top ropes.
I am so glad that the FHRC in Eldorado has taken a stance against these convenience anchors. Their farsighted understanding of how profoundly these cheese-ball anchors will change the nature of a route and an area has kept Eldo as one of the premier trad areas in the country. Nov 26, 2007
Fort Collins, CO
Anyone agree? Nov 11, 2007
Golden, Co
Westminster,CO
I once linked up all three pitches together as one pitch. I called it the "Ultimate Linkup". Stanton "pumphouse" Peterson belayed. Jun 15, 2006
Lol. Bob has a very good point, which is to learn to climb the crack, not the face around the crack. Same goes for your feet. Learn to jam them in the crack, especially on flared cracks. Rand smears = (secure + good body position most of the time). Edges on the outside of the crack can certainly be useful, but pure reliance on them is foolish. Know how to do both and when to use what. Apr 21, 2006
Laramie, WY
Carbondale, CO
Laramie, WY
Laramie, WY
Sacramento, CA
One of the best handcracks Vedauwoo has to offer. Aug 12, 2003
Vancouver, WA