Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,801 total · 24/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

Description

This is true chimney climbing that should not be missed by anyone. It's a bit runout, but reasonably secure, with some face holds to augment the chimneying. Kneepads can make this a more enjoyable experience.

Locate the beautiful, deep chimney on the right side of the large buttress at the SE side of the crag. Don't stare too long at the right, overhanging offwidth (Vulture Direct, a classic sandbag). This climb takes the obvious chimney that forks left from the conjoined wide crack start with Vulture.

Left side in or right side in? Remember that it's far less strenuous and easier to rest, if you lean back against a lower-angled wall instead of being forced forward towards one.

The climbing is runout, but be confident, and stay in control. There are two bolts to clip.

Rap from the obvious anchors.

Protection

A #3-4 Camalot and two QDs for the bolts. This is a runout route, but relatively secure; it would be hard to fall out of this chimney - although not that hard. A single rope rap is required.

Photos