Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,489 total · 21/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is true chimney climbing that should not be missed by anyone. It's a bit runout, but reasonably secure, with some face holds to augment the chimneying. Kneepads can make this a more enjoyable experience.

Locate the beautiful, deep chimney on the right side of the large buttress at the SE side of the crag. Don't stare too long at the right, overhanging offwidth (Vulture Direct, a classic sandbag). This climb takes the obvious chimney that forks left from the conjoined wide crack start with Vulture.

Left side in or right side in? Remember that it's far less strenuous and easier to rest, if you lean back against a lower-angled wall instead of being forced forward towards one.

The climbing is runout, but be confident, and stay in control. There are two bolts to clip.

Rap from the obvious anchors.

Protection

A #3-4 Camalot and two QDs for the bolts. This is a runout route, but relatively secure; it would be hard to fall out of this chimney - although not that hard. A single rope rap is required.

Photos

You can place a #3 Camalot to sort of protect getting into the first squeeze, then a #4 Camalot (2 foot runner helpful) before heading up left into the main part of the chimney. It gets wider the higher you go, and it is possible to place a #4 BigBro down low before it gets too wide. But, it is essentially unprotected. Quite a neat fissure, though. Oct 9, 2001
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
How big is the crack higher up? I have an old (like first edition) copy of crack country and I saw and awful lot of recommendations for "large pipes." Given some time, some 4" tube steel and a metal saw, I'm sure it can be protected, clean no less. Sep 2, 2002
Number 1 on the above Beta Photo is the start for both Right Parallel Space and Vulture. Don't fall into RPS, there's teeth down in there. Vulture is the least climbed of these routes, but offers a devilishly testy route for 5.10 leaders if started directly off the ground (take extra medium cams). Seevedauwoo.org for more details. Jun 1, 2003
Paul Sampson  
 
A great climb. However, the runout from the bolt (which is really an old pin) to the anchors was about 30 feet from what I could tell. That section also traversed enough that my second got pretty wigged out. Not a good first chimney for anyone to climb, but if you've been in a few, this one is super! The moves are fun and not very hard. Jul 21, 2004
JellieBean
Lakewood
 
JellieBean   Lakewood
 
I'm sure this is a great route, but not for a warm up and a first time lead in the Voo. This was my 3rd trad lead ever and it was a big wake up call. The run outs between my last piece and the bolt tested me a bit but the 30 feet above the bolt to the anchors was wiggie. I wasn't crying like a baby but I do remember kissing the ground when I got down. :) Aug 25, 2008
rob.calm
Loveland, CO
rob.calm   Loveland, CO
The two old bolts have been replaced. Thanks to Matt Clark and the American Safe Climbers Association.

Rob.calm Aug 24, 2012
GilaShot
Western Antarctic, New Engl…
 
GilaShot   Western Antarctic, New Engl…
 
The runout above the second bolt should really give this route an R rating. When you reach the top of the chimney, walk to the far edge (away from the side of the chimney you entered) to find belay/rap anchor Now your second, while facing a terrific swing, will have some excitement too. Also, one if the anchor bolts can be wiggled out in case you want to inspect it. Enjoy! Aug 23, 2016