Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli, 1989
Page Views: 1,563 total · 12/month
Shared By: Lenore Sparks on Aug 15, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Start on a crack that dissipates after 20 ft. Traverse left to a bolt and continue left to another crack that begins midway up the wall. Build anchor, walk off to the west.

Location

Three sisters amphitheater just left of Tarsalation.

Protection

One bolt, trad (fingers to hands).

Photos

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JNE
JNE  
Since it's first ascent in the early nineties this has likely only seen two repeats for three ascents total. Pat Goodman did the second ascent in 2002 and this year Jeremy Medley did the third. One special note on this climb is that Jeremey snapped a key crimp off of this in 2004 (which was reinforced with glue prior to the FA by Bob Scarpelli, the glue is still visible on the other crimp if it has not flaked off as well), making the upper slab much more difficult. The difference is in the right hand that is used when moving into the crack. You used to be able to match two comparably sized crimps and slap left into the crack, but now the right hand is WAY smaller than the left. As a result the slab is now significantly harder. In both me and Jeremys opinion this should get an upgrade, and we think the appropriate grade would be 13- at Vedauwoo. If anyone has their doubts, it's there for them to try. Knowing Vedauwoos precedence for sandbags, especially past 5.10, this was likely 13- by contemporary standards before it broke anyway.

Also, someone should replace Bob's old bolt on this route. As long as it goes in the same place he is fine with it being replaced. Jun 19, 2009