Type: Trad
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 4,478 total · 25/month
Shared By: Andy Johnson on Jul 9, 2004
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

October Light is an excellent testpiece that seems to receive very few ascents. I would highly recommend this route for someone looking for a good challenge. The route is located just to the left of Hurley-Fowler and B-G Crack and is very obvious. It is the intimidating hands through offwidth crack that splits the buttress. Get psyched up and go for it. The pitch starts off as good flared hands through a steep bulge and continues to get wider. Save a #4 Camalot for the top. Don't expect to find a line on this Scarpelli masterpiece.

Protection

You can place everything from a yellow Alien to #6 Friends. Go heavy from #3 to #5 Camalots. Bigbros may be difficult to place because the offwidth section flares a bit. A #6 Friend is good to have. Hand-size pieces are nice for the anchor.

Photos

How is it that the book rates both this climb and Big Pink 11b? Sure they are both big bad offwidths, but this thing is definitely a grade easier than Big Pink. Come on guys, have some consistency. Mar 6, 2005
October Light is generally considered easier than Big Pink by most Vedauwoo offwidth climbers, but you might be surprised by the number off good offwidthers that consider this thing pretty damn hard. The trend at the Voo is that if it is hard and doesn't have a roof it is an .11. If it is hard and has a roof it is a .12. Mar 13, 2005
JNE
JNE  
Now has bolts up top. Apr 10, 2006
I wonder what most folks think the crux is on this route? I thought it was the beginning hand crack. Above that, nothing felt harder than 5.10d. Since I've been failing on some other things at the Voo, I'd have to think this is soft for Scarpelli 5.11b. Aug 20, 2007
JNE
JNE  
I believe Scarpelli originally rated this 10d or 11a. I think it was given 11a in the old Kopishka guide and was uprated in the first edition of Heel and Toe. Most people I know consider the first and third bulges to be the cruxes with the third bulge being the overall crux. Aug 20, 2007
Nate26  
Scarpelli rated it 10c as he thought it was similar in difficulty to Twilight Zone. Amazing route. Sep 1, 2008
I would agree that this is a full grade easier than Big Pink (which is really 5.12- IMHO). Mar 13, 2012
James Arnold
Chattanooga
 
James Arnold   Chattanooga
 
JMO a #6 Friend will get in your way. Maybe it was how I was facing and stacking, but wrestling with it (crack kinda tight then it gets in the way of moves) caused me to grip out and fall. The money piece for me was the old #5 Camalot, when I ditched the 6 and took the old 5 next go it was smooth sailing...well, not exactly smooth, but it got done....

Per Greg's comment, I thought the 3rd bulge was the crux, but janky sharp hands is a strong suit whereas body squirms aren't...awesome route. Jun 15, 2013
michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
A #6 Camalot provides toprope pro through the crux as long as you keep pushing it out of the way up above the constriction. An old #5 would fit better around the constriction. Swim quickly and left side in. Oct 29, 2018
Corey Flynn
USA
  5.11
Corey Flynn   USA
  5.11
Awesome climbing and very well-protected, save a 5 for the roof at the top if you’re not comfortable running it out at that size. Rack: 0.5, 1, 2, 2 #3s, 2 #4s, 2 #5s, and 1 #6. Oct 29, 2018