War Zone [Edit]
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.9 from 44 votes
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War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c | |
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Type: | Trad, Sport |
FA: | Sean Bradley |
Page Views: | 2,035 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on Sep 15, 2001 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Leo Paik, John McNamee |
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Details
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
Description [Edit]
War Zone is another excellent line in the Friday the 13th area of the Nautilus. This line ascends the low angle face to the steeper headwall to the left of Friday the 13th and Deception.
Climb up the interesting incipent cracks on the lower face before launching on the fun bolt protected face above. Good edges and crystals make for a thoughtful, balancy, and stellar climb. As always, the grade is debatable, perhaps soft at grade, particularly compared to Vedauwoo crack lines.
Climb up the interesting incipent cracks on the lower face before launching on the fun bolt protected face above. Good edges and crystals make for a thoughtful, balancy, and stellar climb. As always, the grade is debatable, perhaps soft at grade, particularly compared to Vedauwoo crack lines.
Protection [Edit]
Four bolts on upper headwall to a 2 bolt rappel anchor. This route requires supplemental gear to reach the upper bolted section, gear up to 2 inches. A small camming device (0 TCU or equivalent) is nice to protect the seam between the 3rd and 4th bolts.
Fort Collins, CO
Boulder, CO
So you know, the second button head on the head wall is rusty. Would be great if someone replaced those with decent hardware some day. At least the final bolt has already been replaced. Also, a green Alien is very nice in the horizontal before the last bolt. Jul 5, 2011
Laramie, WY
Boulder, CO
CO
The grade is spot on, and it's a really beautiful climb. Also, with the new bolts (thanks, Smassey!), the thing is safe and fun the whole way. Get on it! Oct 8, 2016