Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Sean Bradley
Page Views: 2,160 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 15, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

War Zone is another excellent line in the Friday the 13th area of the Nautilus. This line ascends the low angle face to the steeper headwall to the left of Friday the 13th and Deception.

Climb up the interesting incipent cracks on the lower face before launching on the fun bolt protected face above. Good edges and crystals make for a thoughtful, balancy, and stellar climb. As always, the grade is debatable, perhaps soft at grade, particularly compared to Vedauwoo crack lines.

Protection

Four bolts on upper headwall to a 2 bolt rappel anchor. This route requires supplemental gear to reach the upper bolted section, gear up to 2 inches. A small camming device (0 TCU or equivalent) is nice to protect the seam between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

Photos

Joe Collins  
 
The climbing above the last bolt is the crux and borderline 'S'. At the very least there's big whipper potential. Jul 14, 2003
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
A Vedauwoo face climb that actually has good edges on it, this is a very worthwhile route. The last couple of moves really keep your attention! Jul 22, 2005
There is an intermediate anchor above the 5.9 trad section before the hard climbing. This is a great route by itself, climbs more like a City of Rocks,ID route. I'd rate it PG13, and it requires some concentration above small gear. Jun 21, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
A really cool climb! Link the two pitches together and keep a cool head as the 2nd pitch is mainly old button heads and thin holds. Awesome though how they just keep popping up as you need them to keep it at the grade! Go straight up from the last bolt to find the anchors.

So you know, the second button head on the head wall is rusty. Would be great if someone replaced those with decent hardware some day. At least the final bolt has already been replaced. Also, a green Alien is very nice in the horizontal before the last bolt. Jul 5, 2011
Anyone know about the bolted thing that leads to a crack to the left of this? I checked it out lowering off the bottom War Zone anchors, and it looks pretty cool, but it needs a cleaning. I'd be pretty surprised if it hasn't been done, even if it was aiding the bolts to get to it. Apr 7, 2015
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
Per the first edition of Zach's book, it was a Matt Couppel project. That book came out close to a decade ago though, so if its still a project, it should be reclassified as an open project. Apr 7, 2015
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11-
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11-
Good, sustained, thin, face climbing on the upper face. The buttonheads with SMC hangers are all spinners and essentially all rusted. I was quite relieved to get small gear in the horizontal before the final (bomber) eye bolt. This route would be a good candidate for hardware replacement. It appears that War Zone is toproped almost daily and led very rarely. Sep 8, 2015
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
In reference to the two-bolt traverse route into the crack just left of War Zone et al, I was told this line was never actually completed. Maybe I'm wrong. Either way, I sent it about a month ago after trying it a few random times over the last two years. I'd say 12+(ish). Jul 16, 2016
Whoa! Nice work, Jason. I've tried it a few times myself and could never quite figure the face traverse into the crack. Very intriguing line! I've also been told it hasn't been completed from the ground yet, though I'm definitely not the bookkeeper. Jul 25, 2016
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
The three 5/16" buttonheads on the second section were replaced with 1/2" x 2.75" SS Powers bolts on 8/7/16 with hardware donated by the Boulder Climbing Community. In addition, the buttonhead in the anchor was also replaced. The original holes were reused to keep the original character of the route. Aug 7, 2016
Chris Kalman  
 
Onsighted the other day - just spectacular! The bottom 5.9 was incredibly fun, definitely safe (although not a sew-up). There's good gear just right of the first anchor which keeps the rope drag down some, and there's even a nice piece up high before the headwall finish (I enjoyed just lucking into having the right size piece while onsighting - so I won't ruin anyone else's OS by spraying what piece it is).

The grade is spot on, and it's a really beautiful climb. Also, with the new bolts (thanks, Smassey!), the thing is safe and fun the whole way. Get on it! Oct 8, 2016