Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,178 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 1, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is an excellent line. About 100 feet right of Captain Nemo is an alcove/dihedral area.

The first pitch climbs the obvious corner (bit hard to get into) then follows the nice handcrack up the slabs to the right. Place some good pro before heading around / under the bulge, look for features on the right face. Belay at the good shelf.

The second pitch uncomfortably enters the offwidth to the left. One or two large pieces will protect the section. Continue above the ledges in another wide crack (#3 Camalot in crack to the right) to 'summit' ledges. Anchor with medium to small pieces.

Walk off (scramble up and walk off to the southeast).

Protection

Standard rack including wider gear for the last pitch (could possibly get by with just 2 #3 Camalot's on the last pitch, but a #4 recommended).

Photos

Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.6
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.6
You can also proceed from the top of the off-width directly to a 2 bolt rap anchor and go that way. While not obvious, if you keep walking left (that is, in a straight line away from the belay) you will reach the bolts. Much easier than the walkoff. Jun 10, 2003
KateC  
Rappelling is much easier if you can find the bolts. But you MUST HAVE A FULL 60M ROPE to get down from there.

And I would recommend bringing some much bigger pieces for that 2nd pitch. I'm not even sure how you could fit 2 #3s in there... maybe with really long arms? My husband walked a #4 through the "thinnest" parts of the crack, and even set the green big bro in the top of the flake. A #6 might have made getting into the ow a bit less stressful. Jun 11, 2007
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.6
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.6
I did well with a #4 Friend, and a #4 and #5 C4. Over all, I took a double set from #0.75 C4 to #3 C4, with the afore-mentioned bigger stuff. The crux is brief, and just a shade harder, move-for-move, than Upper Slot Right. Just don't get your knee stuck.

There are also chains on top of the Thin Man Chimney which is the analogue of the top chimney thing of Horticulture. Beta on that rappel on the Deception page. Sep 21, 2009
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
Beware of the rap station to the right, our rope got stuck and rescuing was a real PITA. Fun route though. Jul 3, 2013
Ryan Locati
Bozeman
Ryan Locati   Bozeman
As of summer 2018, there is a nice cordlette slung around a solid 3ft chickenhead that can be used to rappel back down to the base. A 60m rope works well. Jul 22, 2018