Type: Trad
FA: Dave Stiller, belayed by Peter Hollis?
Page Views: 6,617 total · 31/month
Shared By: Ben F on May 31, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


105 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This route is located on the far right side of the Nautilus as you view it from the parking lot. It is a wide right-facing dihedral. To access it scramble up to the ledge at its base. The crack in this dihedral is fat. Suck it up, use some technique and/or lay it back in sections and go. I wish I could give a more vivid description of this generic looking dihedral. I'll just say that it held my attention from start to finish. I jammed, stemmed and did some laybacking.As far as fatties go, this is a good sampler.

Protection

I did this route with nothing more than 1 #4 Camalot. I wish that I had brought my #5 and #6 Friends also. There are 2 adjacent cracks, where you can sometimes place smaller gear. Upon finishing this climb, establish a gear belay in a scoop at the top. To descend, locate the nearby rap anchor on the back side of this section of the Nautilus and head for the ledge below. Bring a light standard rack, and go heavy on the big stuff.
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
This great route doesn't require any pure offwidth technique. Smallish gear can be placed in a straight-in thin crack that ends where the route kicks right- at that point you'll definitely want one or two large (#4 Camalot size) pieces for the wide crack. Hand sizes for the belay. Apr 20, 2005
Rob Dillon  
 
If you have a #5 Camalot, you won't regret bringing it.

1 each stoppers & cams, and maybe 2 #4 Camalots if you got 'em. As mentioned, there's some supplementary gear in thin cracks that allows you to hang on to the precious fat stuff.

Save some 3-4" gear for an easy top anchor. Aug 15, 2005
Buff Johnson
  5.9
Buff Johnson  
  5.9
This short .9 is a sustained bastard child! Found the use of 2 each #5 Tech Friends helpful, and small gear is useful also. Also, not so obvious, this route finishes with a steep mind-fk handcrack. Good & fun route.

Walk up to bolt station and rap. Jan 20, 2006
Brian Story
  5.9
Brian Story  
  5.9
This is a great route and a striking line. I found placing small gear in the incipient crack lower down to be tricky but manageable. I agree that a #5 Camalot or equivalent is usefull but not required after the crack jags right. I recommend belaying off the bolt anchor on top instead of building an anchor. I found liebacking usefull at times. Nov 14, 2006
Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Finally a wide crack with non-thrashing movement to it. Even after reading up I was still pleasantly surprised to find good laybacking, few off moves, and plenty of decent feet up higher. I would also recommend having at least one #5 Camalot for the lower section, or get creative in the thin crack out to the right. Sep 5, 2008
EMT
EMT  
You can layback this whole climb at an easier grade. Apr 17, 2009
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Awesome, awesome pitch. It blows my mind how many classics there are on this crag. Great right-side in blue collar offwidthing to an awesome switcharoo to left side in jamming and liebacking about halfway up. Aug 31, 2012