Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: probably Scarpelli
Page Views: 4,269 total · 20/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 10, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

35 yards right of Captain Nemo. This route is one of the best of its grade. Three 11 cruxes (thin hands, caterpillar, bizarre wide-crack) provide unusual variety and will keep you thinking. The upgrade (from 11b to 11c/d) reflects the difficulty in onsighting it compared to Spectreman or other routes of this grade. Try it and tell Rob or Skip what you think. - Lord Slime

Protection

Finger-sized stoppers/hexes and up, green Alien and up including Friends (2)#2, (2)#2.5, (2)#3, (3)#4 and a 4 or 5 Camalot. This will leave you with enough stuff to make a belay anchor. Recently someone left a webbing rap anchor on top.

Photos

ac
ac  
A.S.H. is definitely not 5.11c/d, I mean come on, I agree that spectreman is very easy for the grade, but that doesn't mean A.S.H. is harder than 11b. If you want a good route to compare it to don't pick a perfect hand-crack but better yet something like the following: Octoberlight (11b), BigPink (11b), both testpieces for the grade. Compared to those two, I think you'll find A.S.H. considerably easier. AC Apr 10, 2003
AC, you are comparing a predominately hand sized line with two reputedly hard, sustained offwidths. I think most people would agree that a mainly hands .11+ can't touch a sustained .11 offwidth in terms of difficulty. If you find grades to translate equally across all sizes of cracks then more power to you. Feb 10, 2004
I like climbing routes like this. Let's resist the temptation to upgrade them. Most Vedauwoo 11s are a project, that's just how it should be. If it's a tick or two off who cares? If it's more, deem it a sandbag and leave it at that. May 3, 2004
Anonymous Coward
  5.11c/d
Anonymous Coward  
  5.11c/d
Just to clarify for you guys, Andy Johnson and AC, you both appear to be saying the same thing, that this climb is more comparable to climbs like Big Pink and October Light. I totally agree. But just for the record, I think Spectreman is harder and I definitely think October light is a grade easier than this thing. Mar 6, 2005
Brian Weinstein
  5.11
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11
The beginning crux was a flaring right hand jam...the key for me was thumbs up! I was extended reaching for it. After that it turns into an enduro thrashfest. Harder then many 11s I've done at Vedauwoo. Enjoy! Jun 24, 2008
jay dee  
Heads up: the old rope bail sling around the chockstone (right before the offwidth section) is partially chewed through and needs to be removed/replaced(?)
I left a sling and biner on a horn to back it up. Jul 5, 2008
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
It's 5.8. One big, vertical, hand hold. Jun 4, 2009
This climb is not a 5.11 c/d . . . not even remotely.

The first "pitch" is 5.11- (pod to hands). Period.

The second "pitch" is 5.10+ (offwidth). Period.

If you do both so-called "pitches" in one push to the top, thereby reducing the climb to a single pitch (the way it should be done), then the climb is still 5.11-. Period.

Anyone saying this climb is 5.11+ is just trying to feed their own ego. The ear on Primrose Dihedrals is 5.11+. Compare the two. Not even in the same ballpark.

Also, I heard there is an AIDs virus infected tick infestation at Vedauwoo? Can anyone confirm this? Dec 10, 2009
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Didn't have a book for Vedauwoo and ended up jumping on this to warm up, since it looked like sweet hands. Didn't feel like a great warmup. Since the crack pods out behind the lip, I found it hard to get the right piece in fast on the first go. Really fun climbing, though!! Oct 10, 2010
A-W
  5.11
A-W  
  5.11
Pro can be a little more tricky to place in the thin hand start than one might imagine. This thing felt hard until I got the gear sorted out. I don't bring any cam larger than a #3 and save it for the end. I always wondered how many people go left side in at the end. Seems like it would climb easier that way, but that backwards swinging fall would be ugly. Nov 6, 2015
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
The end being the bail anchor midway up the route? :) Nov 6, 2015
A-W
  5.11
A-W  
  5.11
Updated the hardware on the anchor and removed all tat. Kept the original bolts which seemed fine although one is at a bad angle, just added hardware. Jun 20, 2016