Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Todd Skinner and Paul Piana
Page Views: 2,311 total · 11/month
Shared By: Andy Johnson on Oct 18, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

Description

This difficult line is located approximately 50 feet left of Ghost Dance. Once you see it, the name will immediately make sense. While it appears as though this may not be a good one to lead, I assure you that it does take descent pro. The downside is that you need to hang out in some pretty strenuous stances to work the gear in just right. Also, if you place gear above you, you will definitely screw yourself in a major way. This climb is a bottomed-out flare with a distinct crux in the middle. I will give you one tip...believe in your right foot. I have climbed hard .11s at Vedauwoo that were significantly easier than this climb.

Protection

Small Stoppers and RPs, maybe Screamers, cams #00 TCU to #0.75 Camalots. Don't worry about doubles. Two-bolt anchor at the top.

Per John Lombardi: as of 6/16/2018 bolts are on the hangers but no rap rings. 

Photos