Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Todd Skinner and Paul Piana
Page Views: 1,706 total · 9/month
Shared By: Andy Johnson on Oct 18, 2003 with updates from John L
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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19 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This difficult line is located approximately 50 feet left of Ghost Dance. Once you see it, the name will immediately make sense. While it appears as though this may not be a good one to lead, I assure you that it does take descent pro. The downside is that you need to hang out in some pretty strenuous stances to work the gear in just right. Also, if you place gear above you, you will definitely screw yourself in a major way. This climb is a bottomed-out flare with a distinct crux in the middle. I will give you one tip...believe in your right foot. I have climbed hard .11s at Vedauwoo that were significantly easier than this climb.

Protection

Small Stoppers and RPs, maybe Screamers, cams #00 TCU to #0.75 Camalots. Don't worry about doubles. Two-bolt anchor at the top.

Per John L: as of 6/16/2018 bolts are on the hangers but no rap rings. 

Photos

JNE
 
JNE  
 
This route is GREAT practice for both flared hand jamming and how to use your feet in a flared crack. If you struggle with flared cracks, go do this route. You can toprope it easily by scrambling around to the left. Knowing how to do flared jams is a prerequisite for many of the harder routes at Vedauwoo. May 8, 2006
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.11-
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.11-
This thing is deceptive from the ground. The pro is tiny and difficult to fish in, and the jams are nowhere near as good as they look from a distance. Stout flared jams all the way. Jul 18, 2007
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Techy jams with techy gear placements. I found nuts worked best. Also, the route is about 35-40ft long rather than 60. Aug 27, 2007
Carolina
Farmington, NC
 
Carolina   Farmington, NC
 
Best 11 at the Woo by far! Balance, jam, flare-jam and finger-lock your way to the top. Nov 8, 2010
bart cubrich 1
  5.11-
bart cubrich 1  
  5.11-
This route can be very safely and easily protected without small gear such as RPs. It is not a sketchy lead at all, as people assume it would be. You start 15' above a chasm, and get good gear before the climbing gets hard. I sewed it up with a #1, several #0.3s, and just one small cam (purple C3). Just run it out at the top and save the really small stuff for Father #1. This route is so fun! Excellent climbing! Oct 13, 2014
J Rees
Wyoming
 
J Rees   Wyoming
 
As of 5/13/2017, hangers are present and in good shape. May 15, 2017
John L
Fort Collins, CO
 
John L   Fort Collins, CO
 
I think a good rack for this climb consists of:

3-4 0.3 size BD, 2 0.4, 2 0.5, 0.75, a 1, and maybe one 0.2.

Distinct hard section in the middle and up top. Felt like I didn't know what to do with my feet and was pumping out. Jun 16, 2018