Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 228 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Jul 31, 2016
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a most interesting route that does not seem to be very well-traveled. It combines flared hand jams, insecure finger locks, and other typical Vedauwoo goodness.

Start by climbing easily for a body length to a horizontal. Things get interesting here and won't let up for a while: small, but good gear, flared jams, some occasional feet outside the crack, and shallow finger locks will get you to a lower-angle section where the difficulties ease off. The easier section has a crack that's a bit dirt- and shrubbery-filled, but good gear and holds are still available.

The route ends at a good ledge where an anchor can be made at an obvious horizontal. Bring some hands to wide-hands gear for the belay.

My partner and I thought this was hard for the guidebook grade of 11b, but our technique for this sort of climbing is not well-honed.

(The route name was obtained from Rob Kelman's guidebook.)

Location

This route is located directly under the middle of a large roof referred to as the Tongue Depressor in the Kelman guidebook; it's about 100 feet to the right of Cool Hand Luke. Look for a flared finger crack with a horizontal about a body length up.

There's no fixed anchor for a descent in the area. We scrambled climber's right (roped up and with a belay) about fifty feet to the right to a large, dead tree and rapped off that (not necessarily recommended but it worked out for us). We explored a little farther along the ledge and it looks like you could scramble farther to get to downclimbing territory.

Protection

Small stoppers and cams from a black Alien to a 0.5 Camalot for the route itself. Although the gear is mostly small, it's generally very good. I used 0.5, #2, and #3 Camalots for the belay anchor.

Photos

0 Comments