Type: Trad
FA: ??
Page Views: 4,939 total · 23/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The Right Tube climbs the right of the the two end cracks on the Nautilus, at the far end of the crag from the parking area. A true fist crack, the bigger your mitts the easier this baby is going to feel. If you have small chops and cannot get fist jams, good luck, it may be 5.12 for you. The upper part of the crack is considerably easier than the start. Read Left Tube beta for anchors and descent info.

Protection

Up to 4" cams required, wider stuff for the easier climbing above. Those with small hands may opt for an additional wrap or 2 of tape around the thumb area to increase fist size- or is that cheating?

Photos

Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
Speaking of which, a fist will get you into the crux, and a handstack will get you out of it. It didn't seem 5.11, but now it's hard to type with no skin on the sides of my hands. Aug 25, 2002
To add insult to injury (literally), this route has been soloed on numerous occasions in t-shirt, shorts and illicited no blood. Apr 10, 2003
Check out Number 3 on the topo above - the Right Torpedo Tube. Jun 1, 2003
WadeM
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
You can also access two Metolius Rap hangers on the right side of the buttress. This facilitates TRing it with a 60m.

Doesn't make it any easier.... Jun 23, 2014
Evan Wisheropp
  5.11+
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.11+
Excellent route! The roof is tricky and momentarily annoying, but the climbing gets easier for a while above. I wish I had brought a #6 for the wider section above the fists. I would definitely recommend it, but also recommend bumping it and taking it with you so it doesn't get sucked into the crack on the 30' chimney traverse finish. I ended up placing two tipped out #5 cams before the armbar offwidth section and ran it out 20' to the security of the easy chimney, I snapped this photo while lowering.

Aug 8, 2016
Ketchup
Boulder, CO
Ketchup   Boulder, CO
Here is the beta I wish I had before I tried this route:
Good movement, but the gear is frustrating. I placed 2 #3s, 2 #4s, 1 #5 and 1 #6. I found the rope was difficult to keep out of the way through the crux. Pretty desperate leg tangling. Several stacks and toe hooks for me. I have normal size hands, and the wide hands above the roof were fairly restive. The squeeze section above is easy, but it would take a #9 to protect it. My #6 flipped over after I got into the cave and would not have held a fall, the crack is too wide above it for bumping, so you leave it behind and commit (my 6 was just laying in the crack when I lowered, much worse than the above photo. Place low!). After you get in the cave, there is gear from 3 to 5 inches, but it's not worth the rope drag and retrieval hassle. Expect a runout and then probably a solo (pretty easy and fun) after the #6 placement. Steel clips are climber's right when you emerge. May 7, 2017
Ray Lovestead
Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Ray Lovestead   Boulder, CO
  5.11+
Safety comment: do not climb this after a rain storm (and perhaps rainy season). The horizontal chimney moves at the top can be slimy. My back, knees, and hands were green (from the wet slime) when I was done. My ass was brown. Jun 5, 2017
Aaron Ramras
  5.11+
Aaron Ramras  
  5.11+
As one of the small handed folks Steve speaks of in the description, this thing was truly a nightmare. The solution ended up being to shove my right leg in crotch deep, tighten my core, and inch the horrible rattly fist/forearm jam up ever so slowly until I could use it enough to release my leg. I found the sequence to be fairly frightening, since my leg was above my #4. I was also uncomfortably close to decking distance above my last piece before I was stable enough to place another #4 without it blocking the crack.

For those comfortable in 5.9 squeeze, it might help to skimp on big gear. I only took one #3 (keeps rope back out of way if you whip off the crux to avoid clothes lining yourself), three #4s, and a #5 that I didn't need (all BD Cams). Lowering off the left Torpedo Tube anchors can shove your last cam into the crack, so I would recommend rapping. Have fun? Jul 11, 2017