Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,198 total · 67/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 15, 2001 with updates from John L and 1 other
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


220 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This line follows the wide crack (crux) up to a spacious ledge before chimneying behind the huge pillar.

P1. Chimney while jamming and protecting in the lovely handcrack. Surmise the difficulty of the line if the pillar were not present, then easily surmount the pillar for the first belay. Currently the anchor at the top of pitch one is 1 bolt + 1 chain. Please be aware of this for the time being. 

P2. For pitch two, step across the pillar back into the hand crack and ascend to a horizontal crack, pull the small roof via another crack to the right. Easier, unprotected slab climbing gains the rappel anchor.

Protection

Standard rack up to 4 or 5 inches. Rappel anchor atop the 2nd pitch, as well as an anchor atop the huge flake.
Excellent climb. This is the wide crack to the right of Friday the 13th and then continues behind the pillar. Bring a #4 Camalot to protect the crux off sized crack at the start of the climb. The moves up the chimney are really the gem of this climb and the entire chimney is easily protected using a few hand-sized cams. There are chain anchors on the top of the pillar that you can rappel from if you are not interested in climbing the second pitch. The rappel is airy and fun too. Apr 4, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Don't skip the second pitch! It is part of the fun!

You can rap from the top of P2, over the pillar and all of the way to the bottom with a 70M rope. A 60M would leave you in a world of pain if you tried to do this in one rap. Jul 7, 2002
Adam Holmes  
 
A 60 meter rope got me to the ground in one rap from the top (but barely). You should be able to see your ends near the ground before you commit to this. Oct 24, 2003
Rob Dillon  
 
I did this in one and found it to be really enjoyable. Don't miss the second pitch! Jul 26, 2004
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Vedauwoo Mega Classic. The exposure stepping off the pillar onto the second pitch is super sweet. If you only do the first pitch, you're missing out big time. Apr 18, 2005
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
Rock quality in the chimney is suspect although it is a chimney so it's not that easy to fall out of. Oct 2, 2005
manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
I did it in one pitch with rope drag, I ran out of long runners at the traversing top. I don't remember any problems with rock quality in the chimney. Overall, an awesome climb. Jun 22, 2006
Bjorn
WNC
  5.9
Bjorn   WNC
  5.9
Do it all as one pitch for a marvellous 3-part adventure. One of my favorite 5.9s anywhere. Jun 7, 2009
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.9+
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.9+
I linked both pitches for some fun climbing and killer rope drag. Bring some slings if you're planning on linking. Aug 2, 2011
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
 
DO THIS CLIMB! Both pitches. Aug 22, 2011
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
We did this on our first trip The Voo in July 2013.

Not being ingratiated previously to The Voo ways, we came equipped with only doubles to #2 and a single #3, #4, #5, and #6 and had to leapfrog some pieces to stay safe. Those climbing at their limit here may want doubles in the #3-5 range to better button this up, as P1 is pretty sustained with P2 offering some groundfall potential early if not well protected. That said, with sufficient cams this thing eats gear just about all the way.

I climbed this in one total pitch with extra-long runners towards the end of P1 and the beginning of P2. There was still a bit of rope drag at the summit, but I would say the linking was worth it for a stellar one-push outing. The P1 steep closed-right-face jams and stems are thin but all there. The real money pitch, though, is P2 with a unique combination of jams on the main face and butt-scootches on the opposing pillar, followed by a committing step over into the main face crack once the opposing pillar gets too far away. Not to mention the fun right-leading traverse at the finish (stepping a bit down for good feet works well here before proceeding up to the top).

I was hooting and hollering the whole way! Mega-classic and in the top 2-3 climbs I did in 5 days at The Voo. Jul 18, 2013
Deke Doty
Fort Collins, CO
Deke Doty   Fort Collins, CO
Classic first pitch! Second pitch, hand traverse and classic Voo, crunchy slab finish! Nov 3, 2013
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.9+
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.9+
Super fun! I went up without enough gear to get to the anchors at the top of the chimney. Had to get a gear delivery. If I did it again... doubles from #0.75 to #5 and one #6 (6 optional). Aug 3, 2015
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.9+
Brilliant but a gruesome struggle on the initial crack - our leader so far forgot himself that he SWORE (more or less continuously). Airy belay spot and exciting on pitch 2. Oct 10, 2015
A-W
A-W  
Second pitch is really nice. Nov 6, 2015
ry guy
Moab, UT
ry guy   Moab, UT
Did this route on 4th of July, great route. One of the anchor bolts on the top of the pitch 1 pillar is quite loose (the whole bolt is loose in the hole and pulling out a bit). The other one is quite solid. Jul 5, 2016
cstebbins024
Laramie, WY
  5.9
cstebbins024   Laramie, WY
  5.9
One of the relatively new anchor bolts on top of the pillar can be pulled out by hand. Beware of this when you rappel. Whoever installed this anchor made a serious mistake that needs to be corrected. Mar 4, 2018
Rod Shaftmoore
Boulder, CO
 
Rod Shaftmoore   Boulder, CO
 
Just a heads up, as of 8/28/18 there is only one rap/anchor bolt on the top of the pillar. Aug 28, 2018
StellaBea
Fort Collins, CO
StellaBea   Fort Collins, CO
Seconding K. Le Douche - there is only one bolt atop the pillar. My partner & I continued up the crack above the pillar, following an exposed traverse over a bulge to get to the top of the East-side of the Nautilus. From the top, you can work your way Southwest toward an anchor above the roof that caps Hesitation Blues. A 70m will you get you down from here. Sep 10, 2018
Went up this at the beginning of October. A #5 C4 is largest you need, use that up before you get to the cool chimney that is the second part of P1 (you could place a #6 in that crack in the chimney, but I felt it was unnecessary, it constricts to take smaller gear at various spots). That chimney is cool, you can just foot jam in the crack and lean your back against the wall the whole way up. Regarding the single bolt at the top of P1, if you want, you can place a #4 C4 high up in the crack off the top of the pillar, and then equalize an anchor between the bolt on the pillar and the cam. That's what I did, and the bonus is that you have your first piece placed for the start of P2. Oct 15, 2018
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.9
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.9
The rap anchor at the top of the pillar has been fixed courtesy of the ASCA. There are two 1/2" SS 5 piece bolts with chains.

If these ever come loose, bring a 9/16" wrench, and tighten the studs. Don't pull out loose studs or remove the hangers!!! Oct 21, 2018