Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Wade Griffith, Jeremy Griffiths, Jen Hanft
Page Views: 2,539 total · 12/month
Shared By: Wade Griffith on May 14, 2002 with updates from Evan Wisheropp
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

The route goes up the offwidth to the right of a route called Hello Stupid near Father #1. Climb an offwidth to a ledge (or scramble in from the right) to get to the meat of the climb. A flaring and overhanging offwidth looms above you offering some chickenwings, arm bars, and a little stacking. It is fists to hands above that. This is a fun route in a sick way.

Protection

#2, 3, 4, 4.5, and 5 Camalots. A #3 Big-bro works well at the beginning.

Photos

Evan Deis
  5.11c
Evan Deis  
  5.11c
Excellent climb. Not nice. It is possible to get a tipped out #6 before committing to the crux (this is your first pro if you've soloed the chimney). A second large piece would be nice to have. Sep 8, 2014
Pamela Pack
Missoula, MT
  5.11c
Pamela Pack   Missoula, MT
  5.11c
Burly. Placed two tipped out #6 cams before the crux. "Fun" is not a word I would use to describe this pitch, but I agree it's awesome in a soul-crushing kinda way! Used: 2x #6 and a #5, #4.5 and #2. Soloed the chimney to the ledge to prevent rope-drag. Oct 11, 2015
Evan Wisheropp
  5.11c
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.11c
Excellent route! This route is the perfect Vedauwoo mix of finesse with a healthy dose of try-hard. You'll want to get your gear planned out from the ledge or you could be in for a bad time. I placed a #6 at the exit of the chimney. Once on the ledge I set a bomber #9 VG up high clipped with a sling along side an ultra tipped out #6 on a medium sling which was later bumped higher into a bomber placement. Then #3, old #4, #2, and chains! This route is a true classic. Aug 2, 2017