Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Skip Harper and Zac Thomas, 1997
Page Views: 437 total · 5/month
Shared By: Sean K. Smith on May 10, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Nemo's Nemesis has thin, technical, sustained slab climbing up a clean face.

From an undercut ledge, sketch your feet onto the slab using 2-pad crystal clusters. Pinch crystals the rest of the way up the slab.

Location

Just to the right of Captain Nemo is a ponderosa pine and giant block that forms a ledge. Scramble onto the block and follow the line of bolts up the slab.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

Put in by Skip Harper and Zac Thomas in 1997, the difficulty of the start seems proportional to the climber's height. Zac is 6'4" and cruised it. Luebben (6'3") rated it 12a/b a week later, commenting 'the start is the crux'. Shorter climbers will no doubt find it more problematical. A moderately long route sustained on crystal pinching and toes. Feb 15, 2013
bart cubrich 1
  5.12-
bart cubrich 1  
  5.12-
This route is nothing to be afraid of. It is very hard slab climbing (I could take my hand off at most points because all my weight was on my feet). There is a bolt almost every 5 feet. 12 bolts in all I think. Jun 22, 2016
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.12a
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.12a
Fantastic, well-protected, and sustained. When it's steep, the holds are bigger. When it's less steep, the holds are smaller! Jul 31, 2016
two chains
Fucken Zion
 
two chains   Fucken Zion
 
Getting off the ground is the crux. That leads to a classic slab moves up higher. Foot work is everything, folks! Some good no hand rests about halfway up and one spot you can get a good foot shake out. Sep 5, 2016