Type: Trad
FA: Sherm the Verm
Page Views: 2,181 total · 9/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


26 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is the obvious layback crack immediately right of Max Factor. Prepare for wild, insecure barndoor moves with your feet at an old fixed pin. Other than that, this is a gem. Most people will layback the rounded edge of the flake-crack; however it can be climbed straight-on, jamming in the flared crack...very technical but probably more secure and safer.

Apparently the second pin was added after the first ascent, it is still a bit exhilarating with both fixed pins in place. The upper crack is tedious, thin, and technical; a person with yams for fingers may even call it 5.11. Probably TR'd most of the time, it is a worthy lead.

Protection

The crux is sketch-city, 2 fixed pins and little else. Get some gear in below the first pin at the horizontal break. A mediocre yellow Metolius backs up the first pin. The upper part is protected with wireds to 1 or 2 inch cams. There are chain anchors. You can TR this by climbing the 5.9 to the right, Baalbek.

Photos