Type: Trad
FA: Sherm the Verm
Page Views: 1,828 total · 9/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 28, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is the obvious layback crack immediately right of Max Factor. Prepare for wild, insecure barndoor moves with your feet at an old fixed pin. Other than that, this is a gem. Most people will layback the rounded edge of the flake-crack; however it can be climbed straight-on, jamming in the flared crack...very technical but probably more secure and safer.

Apparently the second pin was added after the first ascent, it is still a bit exhilarating with both fixed pins in place. The upper crack is tedious, thin, and technical; a person with yams for fingers may even call it 5.11. Probably TR'd most of the time, it is a worthy lead.

Protection

The crux is sketch-city, 2 fixed pins and little else. Get some gear in below the first pin at the horizontal break. A mediocre yellow Metolius backs up the first pin. The upper part is protected with wireds to 1 or 2 inch cams. There are chain anchors. You can TR this by climbing the 5.9 to the right, Baalbek.

Photos

You want to climb this thing on a cool day with low relative humidity. Know when to hold 'em, know when to fold 'em. May 20, 2003
Jesse Ryan
  5.11d R
Jesse Ryan  
  5.11d R
Bug Squad is as fun on TR as Max Factor. Leading Bug Squad can be rewarding. It can also induce puckering. I can't tell you what falling off of Bug Squad might feel like. Aug 18, 2006
Lenore Sparks
Dolores, CO
  5.11d
Lenore Sparks   Dolores, CO
  5.11d
Mr. Engelbach, I love you. That is obvious. However, I finally redpointed this today, a cold, semi-humid day, and it still felt hard. Sep 6, 2008
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
  5.11d PG13
monkeyvanya   Denver, CO
  5.11d PG13
Wouldn't call it R. I backed up first pin by red c3 and purple Linkcam. Probably some yellow-green Alien offset would work instead of a Linkcam. Both are bomber pieces. Second pin backed up by green Linkcam. It was a blind placement that turned out very solid. Probably 0.5 BD or 0.75 would do the trick as well. And the second pin looks like it's actually gonna hold a fall. For me, the upper section was way more exciting but still very well protectable.
Excellent memorable climb anyway. Aug 3, 2011
Cedar Wright  
 
I actually liked this a lot better than Max Factor, and the tech thin climbing at the top is awesome. I backed up the first pin with a yellow Alien and placed a red Alien below the second pin, which makes it pretty reasonable....the first pin is suspect. Oct 15, 2016