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Routes in Nautilus

A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cupcake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In The Dark T V5 6C
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky You T V6 7A
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Octagon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Republic, The V10 7C+
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Shotgun Willy V5 6C
Sitdown Seam V3 6A
Slab Stealer T V4 6B
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempest V9 7C
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twinkle Toes V2 5+
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5
Unknown Mantle V2 5+
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,162 total, 16/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

I always think of an old climbing buddy from the Gunks- Rich Perch- when I think of this climb, although I don't think he had anything to do with it.

Located on the S side of the crag left of Lower Progressive, PP takes the obvious chimney line which ends right of the Parabolic Slabs overhanging side.

This climb is mostly easier chimneying and stemming (wide at points) that has a distinct crux at a chockstone.

The key to passing a chockstone in a chimney rests in your body position, which in turn depends upon how well you are using your lower body (feet, legs, etc.). By stemming or chimneying high, less reliance on pulling with the arms is required. On this climb, face holds and jams may help augment the pure stemming and chimneying techniques employed, but they should not overwhelm these methods. Climb methodically, in control, and be confident that each move is reversible, and each body position is secure.

Descend to the right, eventually locating some rap anchors.

Protection

There are placements for varying sizes of gear, but overall expect some runout climbing.

Photos

Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.7
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.7
Don't lead this if'n you're a 5.6 climber--FEELS a bit harder/funkier in spots. But it's absolute adventure fun!

Can be lead in two pitches to the very top of the potato chip. And save yourself all that nasty rope drag around that first chockstone (AND avoid the spooky move around the outside of that thing) by class 4 humping you and your partner up to the back of the chimney before even roping up. Rope should run free at this point. Pitch 2, run all the way out to the rap rings atop the chip and extend the anchor back to the chimney (30-40ft) for a better bring up.

FAIR WARNING TO FATTIES! The walk down the "hall" at the top of the chimney is TIGHT! I'm considered 'average' build and I had to suck in like a yogi just to get through. Up higher looks wider, if'n you have the sack. Sep 28, 2011
Rob Dillon  
 
160' to the Parabolic Slab anchors if you manage the rope well. Aug 15, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Very good route. Moving past the chockstone on the outside is definitely the way to go, but I remember it being a bit spooky... Options for gear improve soon after that. Jun 23, 2005
I'd recommend bringing several long slings to help with protection [opportunities]. At the beginning I burrowed underneath the large chockstone and developed wicked rope drag. To cure the problem, I went off belay on top of the chockstone and pulled all the rope through and tossed it back to my belayer. Perhaps you're supposed to go on the other side of the intital chockstone to prevent these problems. Sep 4, 2003