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Routes in Nautilus

A Little on the Ugly Side T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Air Voyager With Report S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Automotive Supply House T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Baalbek T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Baldwin's Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Banana Hammock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Bat Guano Crack (mistakenly aka B-G Crack) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bat Heaven T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blood Sport TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V5 6C
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bombs Away aka B52 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bug Squad T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Campsite Host Boulder V2-3 5+
Candlestick T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cannonball T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Captain Nemo T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Central Scrutinizer, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cool Hand Luke T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cornelius T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crankenstein T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cupcake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deep Throat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drunken Redneck Rappellers S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dual T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Easy Jam T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ejector-Rejector TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevator T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Escalator T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Etude For The Left Hand TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Etude For The Right Hand S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Failure to Communicate T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Father 1 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Final Cut, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Finally T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flare Thee Well T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Folded, Spindled, and Mutilated T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fourth of July Roof T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Friday the 13th, Part 2 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghost Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grand Traverse, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gravity's Rainbow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
H & H Grunt T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Hairlip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hamburger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handjacker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Harder Than Your Husband T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hemoglobin T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitation Blues T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Horticulture T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Humper T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hurley-Fowler T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I'm Spartacus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In The Dark T V5 6C
In the Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jim Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jim Jam Junior T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Joke T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kiai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Knee Grinder T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Knothole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Torpedo Tube T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lower Progressive T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lower Slot Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lower Slot and Upper Slot T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucky You T V6 7A
Max Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
MaxiLash T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Middle Parallel Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mother 1 T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Murphy's Law V4-5 6B+
Nemo's Nemesis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Nemo's Toad T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
New Mutant T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nitrogen Narcosis T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Octagon T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
October Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Old Eyeful T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Outrider S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Par Four T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petite Tarsalation T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Piton Perch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Popcorn Farce T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Postman, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pretty S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Republic, The V10 7C+
Right Parallel Space T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Right Torpedo Tube T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Right Winger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0 4
Shotgun Willy V5 6C
Sitdown Seam V3 6A
Slab Stealer T V4 6B
Slat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slick and Superficial T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slut T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soak'em In Cider V5 6C
Stand and Deliver S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Ladder T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Stinkzig T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Straight 4 Ward T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Stranded at Sea T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sun Up To Sundown V6-7 7A+
TTL T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
TTR T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tarsalation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ted's Trot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tempest V9 7C
Thin Lizzy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Thunderbolt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twinkle Toes V2 5+
Unknown Crystal Slab V1 5
Unknown Mantle V2 5+
Upper Progressive T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Upper Slot Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vault T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vedajuicer, The T V11 8A
Vulture Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
W.C. Fields T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wall-To-Wall T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
War Zone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Where the Sidewalk Ends 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V0-1 4+
Whipping Boy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Willem Dafoe's Blood Penis TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,464 total, 33/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Wide cracks have a well-deserved reputation for being one of the more difficult genres in our sport. I suspect this is due to the simple observation that in wide crack climbing, technique goes a long way. Struggling up a wide crack without technique is like climbing a steep trail on skiis- without wax: just plain miserable.

Locate Easy Jam by heading left from the parking lot, and wandering through the maze of boulders to a short slab with a nice-looking diagonal crack in it (Cornelius, 5.5, excellent). Just left is this wide crack challenge.

Wear protective clothing- minimizing pain or discomfort is a good place to start. Now decide which side of your body you want to have inside the crack. Think which orientation allows for the most friction (often very helpful) while reducing any awkwardness. In leaning wide cracks it is often advantageous to have your back against the lower angle side, so that rests can easily be found by leaning back (as opposed to being forced up against the crack). For this route you will want your left side in.

Arrange your gear on a sling, so there is nothing on your harness to get caught.

Keep in mind that in wide cracks and chimneys you can often optimize your body position to provide added security. Done properly, it is hard to fall out of a wide crack, although the tendency for the leader is to get too deep in a wide crack, which is not always the easiest way to climbing one.

The secret to wide cracks is focusing on your lower body. It is the legs that do most of the pushing and stabilizing. Use your arms to maintain your position. For this climb, heel-toe jams with the left foot work well. You can also torque your left knee to help. Arm bar with your left, and move systematically: secure your arms position, then release your lower body (legs, feet) and slide them to a higher position. Now lock them in, and slide up (don't pull) with your upper body by pushing with your legs. Lock the upper body and repeat.

This climb is a little runout, but short. If in doubt, try it on tr.

A nice progression on the Nautilus for learning wide cracks is: Easy Jam 5.4, Baldwin's Chimney 5.4, Right Parallel Space 5.5, Piton Perch 5.6, Slit 5.7, Hamburger Crack 5.7, Candlestick 5.7, Upper Slot 5.7+. Remember that, unfortunately, easier wide cracks tend to be squeezes, and are often poorly protected, so take this progression slowly.

Protection

#4 Camalots, #4 Friends.
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.4
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.4
First offwidth, loved it! Mar 28, 2017
L Kap
Boulder, CO
L Kap   Boulder, CO
Leave your small pro behind - it's useless here. Airy start until you can get your first piece in. Reach deep to place a #2 and #3 BD Camalot toward the bottom. Save your #4s and #5 if you have one for the top where the crack widens out. Definitely a good place to practice hand stacks. You can climb with your feet on the outside of the crack, but it feels much harder than 5.4. There is a bolted anchor at the top and another bolted anchor for Cornelius 10 feet to the right. Jul 27, 2016
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.4
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.4
This is also a spectacular climb to practice stacks on. It feels even more like 5.4 when you're doing hand-fist and butterfly stacks on it. Apr 8, 2010
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.4
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.4
Probably easier to solo than to lead. Aug 9, 2006
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
  5.4
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
  5.4
This was a fun warm up and intro to the areas wide crack tech, I found it was comforting to jam my body as deeply in as possible most of the time. That is assuming that this action does not prohibit further upward momentum. but then again I was ropeless, followed by my brother. If you can solo this thing you should be pretty comfortable with the walk off, and if not then I saw plenty of bolts that you could probably rap off. If your that worried you might just haul 2 ropes up this easy warm up. Like mentioned before if attempting this beast on lead bring pleanty of big gear and place it below you so that it doesn't get in your way; I don't know how just do it =) ! Oct 3, 2005
Rob Migliore
  5.4
Rob Migliore  
  5.4
You can almost climb this route like a dihedral if you keep your feet outside the crack on the arete. I don't feel like I learned as much as I should have on this route. It was hard to get secure feet. I'm not a good crack climber, but I was hoping to get better. Again, I'm not fond of the walk off. Sep 27, 2004
A couple of big hexes (11s and 10s) are more than enough to protect this route. A good warm up or beginner lead. Oct 20, 2003
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.4
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.4
This climb is really short. It took me about 2 minutes to solo it and frankly, it didn't even feel like 5.4. Bring lots of big cams (#4 Camalot over and over and over again) and you can sew this baby up. Just place pro below you, otherwise your body will knock it out of position as you pass. Jun 10, 2003
A #4 Camalot and a couple #4 Friends protects this one fine. An anchor can be made at the top of Cornelius with a few pieces in the range of .5/0.75 Camalots. Oct 9, 2001
slevin
 
slevin  
 
Add Handjacker (5.7+) to the Intro to Wide Cracks 101 list. Sep 1, 2001