Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Grove Way, Ted Nast, Dan Doody, and Andy Ryan, May, 1956 FFA: Jerry Sublett and Phil Fowler, July, 1971
Page Views: 1,517 total · 6/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jun 19, 2002
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Description

This great route is a fairly long pitch for Vedauwoo, and has everything from chimneying to a nice fist/hand crack. Another excellent moderate on the Nautilus.

The climb follow the obvious chimney on the left side of Ted's Trot Block between Cornelius and Lower Slot Left. Climb a fun well protected chimney(I'm not kidding, it sews up with stoppers and aliens) to a big ledge. Above the ledge, climb another chimney with a fun hand crack in it to the small roof. Pull over the roof on bomber fist jams, and grunt up the dihedral to the top. The last 20 feet are the crux.

To descend, rap off the back of Ted's Trot block to the first big ledge. Walk back around this and squeeze down the worm hole - this puts you about 20 feet from your pack.

Protection

Stoppers, small to medium cams. Aliens make protecting the initial chimney easier. Save a 3.5 and a 3 camalot for the exit moves, and no wide pieces are needed despite what it looks like from the ground.

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