Type: Trad
FA: Sandbagger Types
Page Views: 6,662 total · 31/month
Shared By: slevin on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

And now, the final exam to Intro to Wide Cracks 101: after Easy Jam, Baldwin's Chimney, Right Parallel Space, Piton Perch, Slit, Handjacker, and Candlestick, it is now time to do one of the area classics of the grade, the Slots.

Beware of any climb at Vedauwoo named Slot (here are 2). These were (and still are) sandbags for the grade, but the confidence gained of experience will work in your favor. Body position, proper and rhythmical movement, foot and leg position, and confidence will all serve you well here.

From the parking lot, head left around the crag. Just left and around the corner from the Stand and Deliver Boulder are a series of overhanging wide cracks. Lower Slot takes...the lower one, and leads to a classic, leaning OW (Upper Slot). What else can I say at this point but: Go For IT.

Protection

Big stuff.
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Steve, this list is fantastic. I'll be hitting the whole course on my next trip to Vedauwoo. Thanks. Aug 31, 2001
My thanks also, Steve. What more can you ask for than Cliff's Notes for OW 101? It almost feels like cheating. Aug 31, 2001
I guess I cheated on my final exam - instead of taking Lower Slot I did the variation (Lower Slot Left) which I thought was pretty cool. BTW - the Kopishka guide book lists both Lower and Upper Slot as 5.6. Regardless of the rating this is definitely a nice line. Oct 20, 2003
Petro
Golden, CO
  5.7
Petro   Golden, CO
  5.7
This was a sweet climb. Not to spray, but I don't think it was sandbagged at all. 5.6-5.7 (IF you have the technique dialed).

Only a short section of offwidth for my size body (mostly fist jams). There is a nice sidepull to the left to help you through the early offwidth section on the second pitch.

Once these are mastered, don't forget Middle Parrallel Space and Fantasia to bump it up a notch. Oct 20, 2003
TBD
TBD  
My first climb at Vedauwoo was combining A little on the Ugly Side with Upper Slot. On upper slot, I did a variation on the face to the right of the crack to get past the crux. Why did I mention this, Petro is probably correct, but for someone inept at offwidths, 5.10 friction face climbing is apparently easier. Oct 20, 2003
Lizette Pena
Boulder, CO
Lizette Pena   Boulder, CO
Upper Slot - All I can say is heel toe, heel toe. And pray that you don't have a small foot like mine that your heel toe options will soon disappear as the slot widens. Watch those knees. Ouch... Jul 20, 2006
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
Owwwch! Fun climb, I love knowing how much I suck. Sep 5, 2008
Cory Harelson
Boise, ID
  5.8-
Cory Harelson   Boise, ID
  5.8-
These were my favorite climbs from the 3 days (which was not nearly enough!) that we spent in Vedauwoo. The book we had listed Lower Slot at 5.8- and Upper Slot at 5.7+. The crux in the middle of the Lower Slot, which involved getting established in the crack after it jogs to the left, was certainly perplexing, and I'm still replaying the moves in my dreams :). The upper slot was sustained and fun, with great heel-toes. It felt easier than Mother #1 (Which I climbed on day 1), although by the time I climbed this one I'd been stuffing myself up fat cracks for 3 days and my technique may have improved a little. Jul 27, 2009
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
  5.8
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
  5.8
The second pitch can be done independently (the walk-off for Slit takes you right past the top of the Lower Slots, beginning of the upper slots) and is a pretty good 5.6 offwidth pitch in its own right. I still haven't found the 5.7 sequence for my body size on the first pitch though. Jun 3, 2011
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
I stupidly got my brand new #5 jammed on this thing on its very first placement a couple weeks ago. If you manage to extract it, please please contact me. I will ply you with food/beer rewards! Really bummed.

That said, thought this was a nice offwidth lesson with a gorgeous top-out and rap off the backside. Just when the gruntiness seems serious, it backs off. It also seemed to accept a reasonable left-side-in approach given a few good outside feet on the right side face from the crack. Jul 18, 2013
Keith W
  5.7+
Keith W  
  5.7+
Both pitches are really "fun". Strenuous moves get you into the crack on the first pitch, but there are some really good fist jams, and it is well-protected. The second pitch is awesome. Heel toes are key. I went left side in, and that felt "good". Also you can rap to the ground from the top bolts with a 70m with about 10 inches left. Aug 28, 2017