This is a good looking hand and fist crack. There's a chimney between the approach slab and this route and it's an easy step across to start the route. It's convenient to belay on the slab and there's gear available for a belay anchor (#3 Camalot and larger) so that leader and belayer don't accidentally end up in the chimney.
The jams are mostly wide hands and fists with a few good hand jams for those with average size hands.
Location
This route is located to the left of the Friday the 13th recess. One way to get there is to walk left from that route along the wall and when you get to a ramp system scramble up it. You'll soon reach a large slab in front of two cracks on the wall. This one is on the left and an 11a finger and hand crack is to its right.
Descend using a two-bolt rappel anchor. One could also walkoff to the climber's left. We saw this rappel anchor when we walked off Horticulture.
Protection
We used gear up to a #4 Camalot. Several #3 Camalots and a few slightly smaller pieces would fit the bill. There's a two-bolt rappel anchor at the top.
[Hide Photo] Panorama of the Jim Jam area. Jim Jam Junior is the left crack, Joke is the next one (close), Jim Jam is center, and Flare Thee Well is just right of center. Access comes from the slab on the right…
[Hide Comment] There is a rumor in Vedauwoo that this thing is a spicy lead...but don't be fooled! The gear is great as are the jams, and this thing is pretty casual for a Vedauwoo 5.9. So hop on it! Fun route!
Oct 13, 2014
[Hide Comment] I give this climb a 3rd star for accessible TR anchors - they make this climb a good place to practice fist jams. The standard slab approach is a bit difficult and exposed at 4th Class which may make this climb not good for beginners or the offseason.
Jul 26, 2021
Longmont, CO
Laramie, WY
Boulder, CO
Laramie WY