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Trad, 50 ft,
Avg: 2.3 from 36
FA: unknown to me
Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014
Per Henry Lester: all the dirt roads into the climbing and camping areas are closed to motorized vehicles until July 2015 because of resource degradation.
Per Henry Lester: all the roads have been reopened as of June 2014.
This is a good looking hand and fist crack. There's a chimney between the approach slab and this route and it's an easy step across to start the route. It's convenient to belay on the slab and there's gear available for a belay anchor (#3 Camalot and larger) so that leader and belayer don't accidentally end up in the chimney.
The jams are mostly wide hands and fists with a few good hand jams for those with average size hands.
This route is located to the left of the Friday the 13th recess. One way to get there is to walk left from that route along the wall and when you get to a ramp system scramble up it. You'll soon reach a large slab in front of two cracks on the wall. This one is on the left and an 11a finger and hand crack is to its right.
Descend using a two-bolt rappel anchor. One could also walkoff to the climber's left. We saw this rappel anchor when we walked off Horticulture.
We used gear up to a #4 Camalot. Several #3 Camalots and a few slightly smaller pieces would fit the bill. There's a two-bolt rappel anchor at the top.