Matt enjoys a good jam after as the climb starts t...
Description
The easiest approach is to walk the entire length of the east side of Nautilus, past Friday the 13th. Walk around the north end and then head back in the direction of the parking lot. Just past MaxiLash is a large roof with a dihedral leading to it.
P1 (5.8, 70') - Climb the shelves below a left facing dihedral, which goes to a right facing dihedral as you turn the corner. The first pitch is a popular hand crack which starts off small and gets bigger as you go. End underneath the roof at the chain anchor.
P2 (10d, 80') - The start of this traverse lures you in, but the reason this is 10d lies just around the corner. The wall drops away, and the crack turns to flaring jams and slopers. Trying to place gear on this section is awkward to say the least (might wanna take off that helmet!). Pull over the bulge at the lip and belay at the anchors.
Vedauwoo Mega Classic, especially pitch one. I actually recommend keeping the helmet ON for p.2, as (depending on one's height) using opposing forces 'tween the feet and the roof (thru yer head!) can be a real help in moving the hands and placing pro...
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Jun 25, 2007
You should consider ditching the helmet on P2. It is very difficult to see your gear placements, since they are in the back of the flare.
I did the 1st pitch of this route with Craig Luebben, inventor of the Big Bro and Vedauwoo climbing hardman. Spent three days in a Vedauwoo clinic with Craig. This is a great pitch to work hand and fist jams on. I recommend taping, the insides of these cracks are pretty rough.
At this point the second pitch is a beyond me, but definitely worth coming back for.
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