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Ralph Swansen > Comments
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Jul 15, 2025
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No good locks for fat fingers for a bit. Felt harder than .11a to me!!!
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Jul 3, 2024
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Extension is sweet! Offwidth not necessary down lower, Just a quick solid layback section in between solid…
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Jul 15, 2023
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Climbed this today. I found the second clip to be totally reasonable if you climb to the huge jug right abo…
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Nov 18, 2022
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Thanks Nate!! Great route. I hope we all can climb it cautiously to preserve the holds!
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Apr 26, 2022
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This was one of our favorites of the crag. We combined one & two but didn’t climb three.
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Apr 3, 2022
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Bring a lot of gear and be prepared for heady climbing above small gear. Great route.
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Mar 15, 2022
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Did 5.9 pitch & splitter above with 80m. Rope stretcher.
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Dec 11, 2021
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I agree with above a statement. Felt real hard right off the ledge at the base of the clean wall. With r…
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May 2, 2021
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This has ample protection. Not even close to “R”. Worth giving it a lap.
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May 1, 2021
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This can be climbed with a little water in the water streak area. The water doesn’t affect the needed holds…
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Mar 23, 2021
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I did the right side start and really enjoyed it. It is somewhat sandy stone but not terrible. There are…
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Mar 6, 2021
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It is spicy but reasonably protected. The one factor that isn’t mentioned here is that the clipping stance…
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Feb 20, 2021
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This could be a good route. It has not been cleaned well, and there are some very sharp pockets as well as…
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Oct 19, 2020
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80 meter worked fine. Tie a knot at the end. Not PG-13. Super safe.
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Jun 28, 2020
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The approach beta description for this area leaves much to be desired. For three weekends in a row, we h…
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Jun 21, 2020
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I’ll disagree. Second pitch of Le Stat was classic. This pitch is just ok.
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Jun 7, 2020
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There’s a two bolt rap anchor at the top of this pitch. 70m. Also, there’s a new route between this and…
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May 25, 2020
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Awesome route, but I’ll agree that the chossy topout is sort of out of place with the rest of the route, an…
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May 25, 2020
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Stout .10d and would be tough to onsight. Very elusive to figure out the way and gear placements. PG-13ish.
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May 3, 2020
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This lead would be a feather in the cap of any proud slabmaster.
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Apr 25, 2020
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Opening move is 11b. The slab moves above are more like solid 11d.
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Mar 22, 2020
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The finish can be done to the left of the bolts or the right. The left is very good and adds another 5.11…
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Mar 15, 2020
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I lunged left on the OS. I felt it was .11c. Going straight/right would put it closer to .11d.
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Mar 7, 2020
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Let’s give this route some more traffic!
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Nov 17, 2019
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I too enjoyed this more than I thought I would based on the comments. I feel the gaps added a fun variab…
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Nov 3, 2019
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Love the chimney. Wasn’t that bad in shorts.
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Oct 15, 2019
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I felt that the last clip was intimidating at first but came easy with the proper positioning. Getting both…
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Aug 3, 2019
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I’ll agree with Mike Bronson that the G3 start is more difficult than the crux on P2. I felt the P2 crux wa…
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Jul 9, 2019
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Used the yellow offset dmm nut beta below the piton, whipped on it and it was perfect. Also used the #2 abo…
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Jun 15, 2019
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I thought the first pitch was great when climbed direct. It will be 5.11 without cheating right though. L…
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May 5, 2019
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This is a great climb! The first crux is fantastic slab work. I’ll agree that going left at the second crux…
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Sep 2, 2018
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Hard crux on small gear on the shark flake. Don’t think it’s 10a.
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Jul 16, 2018
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The first gear placement is at the crux about 15 feet off the ground and is a very tough and not so good pl…
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Jun 24, 2018
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Yes. The book has it at Forgotten and I couldn’t find it.
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Jun 11, 2018
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Really enjoyed this climb! I felt that taking the absolutely stunning finger crack directly up (right si…
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Jun 30, 2017
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Not sure if the book got it wrong of if a hold fell off but this is harder than .10d. Great climb though!!…
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