Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Nightmare Rock Rock Climbing
Routes in Nightmare Rock
|
And Metal for All S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
Big Barn Door, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Big Daddy Overhang T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Big daddy's Ramp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Claim Jumper T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Dirty Sanchez, The T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Endodontic Treatment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Grand Daddy Overhang T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Great Grandaddy T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Hypertension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Insomnia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
It's a Potpourri! T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Morpheus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Paternity Test S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
|
|
Perspective T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Presto S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Sentry Box T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Sentry Box Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Short Sentry T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Who's Your Daddy? T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 559 ft | 170 m |
| GPS: |
49.6489, -123.2021 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
|
| Page Views: | 49,950 total · 233/month | |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007 | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
An east facing cliff close to the road (somewhat noisy) that has a good selection of routes 5.10 and above. Bonus: many of the pitches will stay dry through the first phases of a Squamish rain siege.
Getting There
Nightmare is on the west side of the road, about 400 meters north of the Murrin parking lot; its large roofs are visible from the road.
Either park in the parking lot (and pay) or, at least during the current state of construction, the paved should directly in front of NR is wide to allow parking directly in front of the cliff.
A trail leaves the road near the south end of the cliff and takes less than five minutes.
Either park in the parking lot (and pay) or, at least during the current state of construction, the paved should directly in front of NR is wide to allow parking directly in front of the cliff.
A trail leaves the road near the south end of the cliff and takes less than five minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Nightmare Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
|
High
|
Low
|
|
Precip
|
Days w Precip
|
Prime Climbing Season
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
| J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
All Photos Within Nightmare Rock
Most Popular · Newest · RandomMore About Nightmare Rock
Printer-FriendlyWhat's New
Guidebooks (9)
2 Comments