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Areas in Lime Kiln Canyon

Back Walls, The 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Grail, The 0 / 41 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 41
Redbud Canyon 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Sacred Trust, The 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
South Facing Canyon Walls 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

Lime Kiln Canyon is a limestone sport climbing area located just east of Mesquite, NV across the border in Arizona. It is composed of three main sectors:

The Grail which has many long, single pitch climbs of high quality vertical to slightly overhanging rock. There are also a handful of multi-pitch routes. Mostly shady. This is by far the most popular of the Lime Kiln crags.

The Sacred Trust which has a selection of single pitch climbs as well as a few 5+ pitch routes. This wall doesn't have quite the quality of rock as The Grail but there are still some fantastic climbs and plenty of sunshine makes it good for colder days.

The Back Walls which include all the climbing deep up canyon. These routes are mainly vertical and slightly slabby quality grey limestone where moderate grades abound.

Lime Kiln is best in the fall and spring. Winter is cold and summer is hot.

Human waste is a problem both near The Grail and near the camping/parking areas. Please come prepared to pack your shit out.

Getting There

From I-15, take exit 120 or 122 for Mesquite and follow Mesquite Blvd (SR 144/NV-170) to Riverside Road (NV-170). Turn south on Riverside Road (NV-170) and follow it for 1.1 miles. Just after going over the Virgin River reset the odometer and immediately turn left onto White Rock Road. Drive approximately 0.3 mile on White Rock Road until it makes a sharp turn to the left. At this point continue going straight onto an unpaved road. This intersection is marked by a sign that says Lime Kiln 10 miles. Continue for 10.7 miles from the intersection of Riverside and White Rock. At 3.0 miles, keep left at the fork, continuing to a pull-off on the left at the start of the approach.

A quick 20 minute walk up the hill leads to The Grail or The Sacred Trust. Another 5-10 minutes leads to the Back Walls.

69 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lime Kiln Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
Office Party
Sport 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 59
Eminent Domain
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Merely a Flesh Wound
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
Last Supper
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 40
Homeostasis
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 69
Khaleesi
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 43
The Madness
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 84
Mesquiter
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
The Sadness
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Greyhound
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 47
Vesper
Sport 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 36
Mantis
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 27
Homo Faber
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 23
The Honeycomb
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 24
Hoarse Platitudes
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Office Party Sacred Trust
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 6 pitches
Eminent Domain Grail
 59
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Merely a Flesh Wound Grail
 58
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Last Supper Grail
 48
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Homeostasis Grail
 40
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Khaleesi Grail
 69
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Madness Grail
 43
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Mesquiter Grail
 84
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Sadness Grail
 36
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Greyhound Back Walls
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Vesper Grail
 47
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches
Mantis Grail
 36
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Homo Faber Grail
 27
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
The Honeycomb Grail
 23
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Hoarse Platitudes Grail
 24
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lime Kiln Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Thomas Beck
Las Vegas, Nevada
Thomas Beck   Las Vegas, Nevada
As I remember the gravel/graded road in is OK with a 2WD vehicle till you get to the watering troughs. Then the road steepens and recent rains may have changed it's character. I'd be cautious in last 2 miles. Jan 13, 2015
MN norske
Henderson
MN norske   Henderson
Did it in a jetta with ease. Did I make at light speed? No but my car was fine with the last two miles. Loved this place. Will be back as much as possible. Mar 8, 2015
Is it possible for someone to send me the topo for this area (high-res version)? Thanks! --Michael Apr 18, 2015
Thomas Beck
Las Vegas, Nevada
Thomas Beck   Las Vegas, Nevada
Manderson,

Some info resides on Summit Post and on Climbing.com site but the pictures are generally not good. It's kind of warm to go there now. Better early spring and fall place. Apr 18, 2015
Hi Thomas,

Thanks for the info. I've been before, albeit only once. It definitely is gearing toward being too warm for many things now! I was just curious if anyone had the full-size version of the topo that is on the Grail Overview page. May 5, 2015
Caitlin Mac
Tempe
Caitlin Mac   Tempe
Can you get in here with a Prius? Is the camping at the end of the road as well, or do you have to drive from the camping to the climbing? Oct 6, 2015
Thomas Beck
Las Vegas, Nevada
Thomas Beck   Las Vegas, Nevada
Catlin,

Camping is where you pull off the road and park to take the approach trails up to the crags. No water there though there is a spring nearby.

A Prius...maybe....if you drove slowly and carefully once the road got a bit rougher. I haven't been there in 2 years. A lot depends on the recent rainfall in the area. In any case there are places to dry camp before the trailhead.

Lime Kiln is about 4000 ft and Mesquite is actually lower elevation than Las Vegas Oct 7, 2015
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
Still scouring for decent topos and more updates but here are a few routes not included on mp.

rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor… Dec 24, 2015
harrison t
Black Hills, SD
harrison t   Black Hills, SD
or you could buy the new misty murphy guidebook. The limestone Bible. Dec 26, 2015
Alec Luther
Albuquerque, NM
Alec Luther   Albuquerque, NM
If you are exploring this area using Todd Goss's guidebook beware of the redbud canyon area. He states in the book that there is a possibility of rock fall. This is by no means a lie. Rock did indeed fall twice off of the 5.9+ Filthy Lucre. Though an awesome climb it would not be recommended without the proper safety gear. I would recommend finding climbs in other areas of the lime kiln. this area is especially dangerous with the tendency to attract new climbers who climb in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. Jan 24, 2016
Cha Tate
Saint George, UT
Cha Tate   Saint George, UT
I'm a local who has been climbing here for a couple of years now. I was there yesterday and was discouraged by the amount of human feces and tp ALL over the place including 15 feet from the camping along side the road. Waste is also accumulating close to the climbing walls. We need to be the stewards of the areas we develop. Please take a WAG Bag waste kit, or bury your waste (including tp), and please hike at least 30-50 yards away from the wall to deposit your bum brownies into your well dug hole. For one, dogs find these deposits delightful and noone wants to smell a sewer while climbing here. Do your part to keep this area and all areas in the same condition we found them long ago. And if you see someone who doesn't understand that depositing 15 feet from the wall ruins it for everyone kindly educate them so they can learn how to treat our amazing climbing areas and outdoors. Lets keep this place amazing. Apr 6, 2016
20 kN    
What a great place to climb! It's like a mini Potrero Chico. Thanks to all those putting in all the hard work to develop this area. I only have one complaint--the anchors used in the canyon. Many of the routes are equipped with the Fixe single ring anchors. Those things are literally the worst possible thing you could place at the top of a sport route. Because the rings do not meet in the center to form a single point, they totally and permanently twist the living shit out of your rope when you lower off on them (and even to a point if you rap off on them). PLEASE, stop adding these things! They are not designed as lower offs, they are designed for rap stations on multipitch routes, and even for that they kind of suck. Apr 23, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Hey 20KN I totally agree. We used to use them for a short time. Perhaps if you get some folks together to raise some funds and purchase quicklinks and Mussies or or chain and old carabiners those who did the work or some other local will fix them up as we do here on Mt. Lemmon. Apr 23, 2016
Ryan Weller
Long Beach, CA
Ryan Weller   Long Beach, CA
@harrison t , I wouldn't recommend the Limestone Bible, this area appears to be in the Todd Goss Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, which has a way nicer layout, maps, and descriptions. Nov 27, 2016
Julius Grisette
Carbondale
Julius Grisette   Carbondale
This place is incredible.

On our way in there was a sign that says White Rock Road will be closed from Feb 21 - April 21.

Would love to link up with a local when we return. Feb 19, 2017
Writing the route names on the rock is ghetto and very lame! May 13, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Jeff, make sure you never climb in Europe. May 13, 2017
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
We have had to delete numerous double posted routes for Lime Kiln Canyon recently. Please do a "search" before posting routes here to make sure it isn't already listed. Especially in the "Back Wall" area. Thank you. May 19, 2017
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
In case anyone is interested, there is a BLM notice posted (dated March 2017) at the trailhead for Lime Kiln regarding possible upcoming improvements. It seems that a number of trees will be removed in order to accommodate a larger parking area, a vault toilet and an informational kiosk. The BLM is requesting that if anyone has comments about this proposed change they can email jjasper@blm.gov or call 435-688-3264 with questions. Jun 16, 2017
Luke, I don't see your point, it is LAME PERIOD! Not sure how lameness there makes it any better here. Sep 26, 2017
Josh Janes    
A few routes had their names written at the base in Sharpie during the first wave of development. This was pre-guidebook and pre-Mountain Project and in the intervening years most of these marks have long since weathered away. Unfortunately, for some reason during the second wave of development at this cliff, this practice was in part resurrected. Personally, I think there is no excuse for this - especially with the advent of guidebooks and Mountain Project, and just because "they do it in Europe" doesn't mean we can't do better. I happen to feel the same way about plaques at the Creek. All that said, unless there's been a major change since I was last there, I can only think of three routes that still had their names written at the base... the human excrement problem was a much bigger one. Sep 26, 2017
Thanks for chiming in Josh, I was starting to think it was just me. Unfortunately there were way more than 3 last spring. Oct 4, 2017
Lurker
Truckee, CA
Lurker   Truckee, CA  
Quick note. Many of the bolt counts in the Goss guidebook are off...like way off. I was carrying 4 more draws than the book called for, by the end.

Other than that, this place is all-time! Once this place gets fully developed (if it ever gets fully developed), it should be one of the premier sport climbing destinations in the western U.S. Killer quality rock and a very large amount of it. Jan 4, 2018
We left a hammock with quickdraws holding it up at one of the campsites up the road from the trailhead...anyone found them? Apr 23, 2018

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