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Routes in Trojan Bunny Buttress

Botany of Desire S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bruise Collector, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bucket List, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crawfish S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cuervo Gold S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Delivering Dynos S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dog Will Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Europithacus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire On The Mountain T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Goldshut Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Half Cracked T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lick My Plate T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Only A Flesh Wound S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pondemonium T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sloping Surprise S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sonata T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Streatch T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Temptation Arete S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thy Holy Hand Grenade S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Description

The Trojan Bunny Buttress is a large and complex formation on the South side of SSV canyon and across the creek from the parking. Most of the rock faces North, however, routes exist on West, East, and North facing parts. The crag proper can be said to begin at a large blank looking wall that faces due East. It sweeps West all the way to a West facing slab called Leatherface that is really part of the same large formation. The rock is typical SSV canyon granite and is well featured with big roofs, edges, flakes, and cracks. While many single pitch routes exist on TBB, the crag is really two pitches high and a few two pitch routes exist as well. Several older trad routes follow obvious crack systems. Also, the TBB slab in the middle of the formation and the Leatherface slab at the West end both have older sport routes that need a little protection in addition to the bolts. Since early in the year 2000 about 15 new sport lines have gone in. These take some of the obvious features of the crag, pushing through the roof systems, aretes, and the largely untouched middle section. Many of these routes are hard, with nothing easier than 5.11b. Most of the pitches have been Red Pointed as of this writing. However, some terrific projects are still in the works. The upper pitches of the two pitch routes are on some of the finest granite I have climbed in the SSV.

Getting There

The Trojan Bunny Buttresses sits 7.2 miles up the SSV canyon via highway 7. A large and generous parking area is right below, but on the opposite side of the stream and right off the road. Two approaches have been used to access the crag. On the left is an easily negotiated talus field with a cairn trail marked through it. The left approach will deposit you exactly at the East end of the crag. Alternatively, it is possible to head up the gully directly across from the parking. This will jog left to easy terrain half way up the gully. This approach deposits you at the TBB slab itself. Both approaches entail crossing the stream. However, since all five Tyrollean Traverses that were installed at the TBB have been chopped, you are pretty much on your own for getting across the stream. I have found that 100 feet down stream from the edge of the parking there is a good section for wading across.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trojan Bunny Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 9
Sonata
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
The Bucket List
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
Goldshut Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
The Bruise Collector
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Temptation Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Cuervo Gold
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Botany of Desire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sonata
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Bucket List
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Goldshut Arete
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Bruise Collector
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Temptation Arete
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Cuervo Gold
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Botany of Desire
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Trojan Bunny Buttress »

Weather Averages

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Photos

evd
evd  
Most if not all of the routes on The Bunny were established by Alvino and company. In fact, many routes in the Vrain were established by Alvino and company. Hence 'Pon Scum' (12) or 'Pondimonium', etc. Sep 28, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Evd, Temptation Arete and the route left of it are not Alvino's.... Sep 28, 2009
slim    
Has anybody made it up to the TBB this season? We made a feeble attempt a couple weeks ago. Between my wife being gimpy and me being wimpy the creek crossing didn't look too enticing, so we bailed. Curious to see if anybody has found a good way across - it looks like the creek has changed a lot since I was last there a few years ago. Jul 30, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Good question. I was going to try to go to Mechanical Man the other day, and it was a new slick trench. No go until the water falls significantly.

Let's be sure to update each approach as we find them.
Desdemona/Area 51 are good to cross - wider than they used to be, but walkable with a stick. Jul 31, 2014
JFM
JFM  
September 20th - the water is low enough to cross either above the crag (a 5-foot jump) or just below it at the talus slope. Sep 20, 2014

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