GPS: 40.186, -105.333 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 15,981 total · 71/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Today
70°F - 52°F 21°C - 11°C
Tue
74°F - 53°F 23°C - 12°C
Wed
76°F - 55°F 24°C - 13°C
Thu
79°F - 58°F 26°C - 14°C
Fri
80°F - 58°F 27°C - 14°C
Sat
79°F - 59°F 26°C - 15°C

Description

The Trojan Bunny Buttress is a large and complex formation on the South side of SSV canyon and across the creek from the parking. Most of the rock faces North, however, routes exist on West, East, and North facing parts. The crag proper can be said to begin at a large blank looking wall that faces due East. It sweeps West all the way to a West facing slab called Leatherface that is really part of the same large formation. The rock is typical SSV canyon granite and is well featured with big roofs, edges, flakes, and cracks. While many single pitch routes exist on TBB, the crag is really two pitches high and a few two pitch routes exist as well. Several older trad routes follow obvious crack systems. Also, the TBB slab in the middle of the formation and the Leatherface slab at the West end both have older sport routes that need a little protection in addition to the bolts. Since early in the year 2000 about 15 new sport lines have gone in. These take some of the obvious features of the crag, pushing through the roof systems, aretes, and the largely untouched middle section. Many of these routes are hard, with nothing easier than 5.11b. Most of the pitches have been Red Pointed as of this writing. However, some terrific projects are still in the works. The upper pitches of the two pitch routes are on some of the finest granite I have climbed in the SSV.

Getting There

The Trojan Bunny Buttresses sits 7.2 miles up the SSV canyon via highway 7. A large and generous parking area is right below, but on the opposite side of the stream and right off the road. Two approaches have been used to access the crag. On the left is an easily negotiated talus field with a cairn trail marked through it. The left approach will deposit you exactly at the East end of the crag. Alternatively, it is possible to head up the gully directly across from the parking. This will jog left to easy terrain half way up the gully. This approach deposits you at the TBB slab itself. Both approaches entail crossing the stream. However, since all five Tyrollean Traverses that were installed at the TBB have been chopped, you are pretty much on your own for getting across the stream. I have found that 100 feet down stream from the edge of the parking there is a good section for wading across.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trojan Bunny Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 12
Sonata
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 12
Goldshut Arete
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Half Cracked
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
The Bucket List
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Sloping Surprise
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
Thy Holy Hand Grenade
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
The Bruise Collector
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Temptation Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Delivering Dynos
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Cuervo Gold
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Only A Flesh Wound
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Crawfish
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 8
Botany of Desire
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sonata
 12
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Goldshut Arete
 12
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Half Cracked
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
The Bucket List
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Sloping Surprise
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Thy Holy Hand Grenade
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Bruise Collector
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Temptation Arete
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Delivering Dynos
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Cuervo Gold
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Only A Flesh Wound
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Crawfish
 8
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Botany of Desire
 8
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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