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Areas in St. Vrain Canyons

Middle Fork of St. Vrain Canyon 11 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
North Fork of the St. Vrain River 31 / 27 / 7 / 35 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 90
South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon 311 / 156 / 42 / 20 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 432
Elevation: 7,694 ft
GPS: 40.16, -105.366 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 238,452 total · 3,349/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Oct 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

This is a set of 3 canyons that are the drainages of the South, Middle, and North forks of the St. Vrain River. The greatest bulk of the climbing to date is in the South Fork. The rock is granitic and at times on the coarser side. There are a variety of routes here, some traditional, some sport, even some ice/mixed. Most of the routes are shorter here, maybe up to 5 pitches in length. There is still a decent amount of rock to explore here. While there is some friable rock in places, the bulk is good quality. Poison ivy does tend to flourish in spots here, so the sensitive should be aware.

Getting There

Most will drive up US 36 or CO 66 west to Lyons. From there, the forks diverge. The South and Middle Forks are accessed off of CO 7. The North Fork is accessed off of US 36.

Overview

With the help and prompting of John Marsella, we'll list these crags going uphill from CO 7 & US 36.

SouthSt. Vrain
Mile 3.1 North: Scout Rock | Scout Slab
Mile 3.5 South: Guard House | Guardian Rock
Mile 3.6 North: Dance Hall of the Dead | Turd World Country | The Shrine of Vanity | Atoll, The | Deadman's Gulch | Deadman's Gulch Boulder
Mile 3.8 South: Mushroom Massif
Mile 3.9 South: Area 51 | Desdimona
Mile 4.2 North: Kids' Wall
Mile 4.3 North: Backstage Wall | December Wall
Mile 4.4 South: The Cliffs of Insanity
Mile 4.4 North: P. Mosh Wall
Mile 4.5 North: The Thinker
Mile 4.5 South: The Sentinel
Mile 4.6 North: Roadside Rock
Mile 4.9 South: Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Mile 5.0 South: The Throne
Mile 5.1 North: Observatory Rock | Upper Infirmary Slabs | Lower Infirmary Slabs | Left Infirmary Slab
Mile 5.3 North: North Narrows Slabs
Mile 5.5 North: Vrain Dead
Mile 5.5 South: Mechanical Man | Swift Rock
Mile 5.6 South: Rapids Rock
Mile 6.0 South: The Spire
Mile 6.5 North: The Monkey Skull
Mile 7.0 South: The Acrophile | Mystery Rock
Mile 7.0 North: The Hobo Car
Mile 7.2 South: Trojan Bunny Buttress
Mile 7.7 South: Arch of Titus | The Coliseum
Mile 8.1 North: ?Drill Affair?, 5.8
Mile 9.1 South: The Fang
Mile 10.4 South: The Watchtower

Middle Fork of St. Vrain - off of CO 72 going south from CO 7
Mile ~14 south on CO 72: Piz Cengalo
Mile 14.4, south on CO 72 -> "a few miles" East: Piz Badille


North St. Vrain off of US 36

Lyons Area
Longmont Reservoir Area (aka Buttonrock)
Tomato Rock

Pinewood Area
Pinewood Boulders, Tomato Rock
Button Rock (aka Pinewood Rock)

Big Meadows Area
Raven's Roost
Coulson Gulch - 2.9 mile hike from Johnny Park off CO 66.
Pierson Point - approached from CO 7.

537 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at St. Vrain Canyons

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 51
Community Service (formerly Little Fl…
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 57
Handcrack-a-rete
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 56
Remission
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Hollow Man
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 54
Casual Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 86
KeeMoSabe
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 61
Sunshine Dihedral
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 72
Upside The Cranium
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 48
Panic in the Gray Room
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 45
Rawhide
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 73
Introducing Meteor Dad
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 97
Redneck Hero
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Temptation Arete
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 24
New Horizon
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 24
Old Yellar
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Community Service (formerly… S Fork of St. V… > Upper Infirmary Slabs
 51
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Handcrack-a-rete S Fork of St. V… > Coliseum
 57
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Remission S Fork of St. V… > Upper Infirmary Slabs
 56
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Hollow Man S Fork of St. V… > Coliseum
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Casual Corner S Fork of St. V… > Monkey Skull
 54
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
KeeMoSabe S Fork of St. V… > Scout Rock
 86
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sunshine Dihedral S Fork of St. V… > Monkey Skull
 61
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Upside The Cranium S Fork of St. V… > Monkey Skull
 72
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Panic in the Gray Room S Fork of St. V… > Upper Infirmary Slabs
 48
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Rawhide S Fork of St. V… > Scout Rock
 45
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Introducing Meteor Dad N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 73
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Redneck Hero N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 97
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Temptation Arete S Fork of St. V… > Trojan Bunny Buttress
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Horizon N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 24
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Old Yellar N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > Old Yellar Dome
 24
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in St. Vrain Canyons »

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