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Routes in The Throne

Air to the Throne T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ambiguity Arete T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
East-Side Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East-Side Seam T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Forgotten Passage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left of Passage T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Magnum P.I. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Name Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Petticoat T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Porcelain Throne T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right of Passage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Short Stuff T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Squeezed to Death T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Squeezin' One Out T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Storming the Castle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thrown a Loop T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thunderstruck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unnamed T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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The Throne is the proper name for the "Ye Olde Rock" in the Hubbel guide. Hosting a few old routes as well as some new development, this rock is rarely visited. It sits high on the South side of the Canyon overlooking the Observatory Rock area. Forgotten Passage is the only published route on the rock, but many more exist.

Getting There

To approach, park at a pulloff just past Lower Infirmary Slabs (Before observatory) on the South side of the road. Mile marker 28 is on the edge of the lot. Cross the river just up-stream. There is a tree covered buttress extending from The Throne all the way to the river that the road curves around. Once over the river, veer right to gain the crest of the buttress and follow it to the rock.

When hiking out, avoid the gully to the east and the gully to the west. The east one is chocked with poison ivy, bushes, trees, and small cliffs. The West gully cliffs out at the bottom, and leaves a difficult river crossing. Avoid descending in the dark as you will end up in one of these miserable holes.

From the top of rock one can rap with two ropes off the back (again don't get stuck in the gully) or rap off slings and other assorted fixed gear to the west. If you rap off the lower western shoulder, you will have to downclimb or rap down some cliffy sections with downed trees to regain the base. Either way allow plenty of daylight to get off.

With the recent development it is possible that modern anchors are present. The last time I was at the top, I left a few equalized nuts, and then rapped off a sling down lower. Until someone posts anything otherwise, count on bringing some bail gear.

Expect ~35 minutes to approach.

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Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
On the left side of the photo is a 5 bolt climb. To the right of that is a 5.9 finger crack that's very nice. To the right of that is a crack that turns horizontal and leads to a nasty corner. Go up the corner to a sloping roof that has the obvious thin, thin flake that looks like the bottom a dagger; up that on the right to a stance, into another shallow corner roof, put in your HBs or RPs here and exit up the thin crack 10b on the smooth wall. Near the end of the crack go straight up to two ledges and a horn to rap from or continue in the corner to the next roof, didn't do this second pitch. 2OCT05--Ross Oct 3, 2005
The approach (35 steep minutes) is worth it. . . beautiful rock with great climbs in a perfect setting.
If I weren't so damned lazy, I'd go back this weekend. Feb 4, 2010
originally WNC, now Broomfield
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
One of the best crags in the canyon. High aesthetics and quality rock make the moderate hike up very worthwhile. Aug 28, 2018

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