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Routes in River Wall II

Arresting Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Big, Big, Monkey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Box, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brother From Another Planet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Introducing Meteor Dad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Diamant E'ternal S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Livewire T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neurosurgeon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
New Horizon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Hercules T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redneck Hero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surround Sound S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Rob Candelaria
Page Views: 5,575 total, 48/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on May 4, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

Although it may appear that the beautiful, bullet slab left of 'Neurosurgeon' is all but featureless, don't be fooled, for there is in-fact a thin, arching seam that offers just barely enough to grab.

Begin the route with easy slab climbing on featured rock. Clip the third bolt and start a 30 foot section of amazing stone where grips are few and far between. Ride the varying seam via tight jams, lay backs and odd mini-pinches until you clip the 6th bolt and rest on good feet. Traverse right on tiny crimps and finish up and left through underclings to anchors.

Brilliant, engaging climbing on super rock. French for 'The Eternal Diamond'.

Location

This is on the large slab right of 'Introducing Meteor Dad'. It is left of the crack 'Neurosurgeon'.

Protection

Quickdraws.

Photos

Ben Crawford
Boulder, CO
  5.13
Ben Crawford   Boulder, CO
  5.13
Incredible rock climb. Super technical pulling on thin holds. It's all there though! Just have to do some hunting. Definitely finish straight up after last bold instead of bailing out left. The sequence is there and damn fun. Feels like there is literally just enough to keep you from tilting off the wall. Oct 18, 2016
A few of us Estes Park climbers have done this, too - around the same time as Hank's 2nd ascent. Chalk washes off in the rain, so it always feels like an FA. Mid 13 micro grips for sure. It goes without the escape at the top.... May 20, 2011
Dusty
Fort Collins
Dusty   Fort Collins
Wow. This thing is relentless after the third bolt. Does it escape left at the top? The face directly above the final bolt looked even more featureless than the rest of the route. Maybe a throw up right to a crimp jug? Maybe I just need to have another look, it was a bit wet up at the top today.

Dusty Apr 19, 2009
Hank Caylor
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Hank Caylor   Glenwood Springs, CO  
 
I believe I got the 2nd on this...13 years ago. It is definitely a Candelaria route, and I like the mid 13 grade. I'm pretty good with f**ked up slab climbing and this thing stays in your face as I recall. Glad to see it is getting more attention. May 5, 2008
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
 
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
 
A couple other things:
Not sure about FA, heard it was Rob, but again not sure.
In the Lyons Area guidebook it states that this climb is anywhere from 5.13a/b to 13c/d. I thought that it was definitely harder than the Boulder Canyon route 'Die Reeperbahn' which seems to be 13b or so and similar in nature. Have not heard of anyone else doing this route, but if so maybe you could please also offer your opinion for the sake of the route here on MP?
Cheers! May 4, 2008