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Routes in Lower Infirmary Slabs

Acts of Contrition S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look Ma No Hands TR
Mentally Infirm T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Oyster T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Plague Boys S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short But Sweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 6,022 ft
GPS: 40.187, -105.333 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,668 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jim Cormier on Jul 30, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Lower Infirmary Slabs has mainly sport routes on a south-facing slab. It is a nice location during cooler months. There are several bolted face routes. The ratings in the climbing guides are way SANDBAGGED. These routes can be top roped or sport lead.

L->R:

A1. Acts of Contrition, 9+, 1p, TR or bolts.
A2. Look Ma No Hands, 5?, 1p, 30', TR.
BC. Mentally Infirm, 10-, 1p, bolts +/- gear or TR.
D. Plague Boys, 8, 1p, bolts or TR.
D. Morning Oyster, 6, 1p, gear or TR.
E. School Zone
F. Around the Corner

Above A. Short but Sweet, 9, 1p, 35', gear.

Getting There

5.1 miles up the canyon, use pullout on the left (it is best to drive a little further and turn around at the turn off to the group of private cabins). Infirmary Slabs (Upper and Lower) are on the north side of the road. Hike up the steep trail to the right, and work your way up. Be careful of poison ivy as it is plentiful up here.

Per JFM: park at the mile marker 28 sign, walk downhill about 50 yards, cross the road, and follow a loose trail to the Lower Infirmary Slabs. Continue uphill around the left side of the slabs for TR access and a bit further for Short But Sweet. Be careful of poison ivy as it is plentiful both on the trail and around the belay area.

6 Total Climbs

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Tim Fleming
Boulder, CO
Tim Fleming   Boulder, CO
I spent a while hiking through the rocky slops by the "cabins" looking for the Infirmary Slabs with very little to reference where I was. The so-called "ranger cabins" are these obscure, abandoned buildings hidden in some brush behind a large fenced area that is on someone's private property just off the north side of the road before the pullout at 5.1 miles. These cabins are often referred to by guidebooks and others, but beware, there are no signs or anything to tell you those are the ranger cabins. So, set the gauge on your car. The mile post 28 pullout on the south side of the road is the best reference for the Infirmary area. Oct 16, 2006
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
Parking is on the south side of the canyon exactly at milepost 28. Ascent trail is about 100' downstream. Watch that poison ivy! Jul 12, 2005
Just uphill the first level above the lower slabs, on the left side between two big blocks is a 12' finger crack that is short but sweet. It goes at 5.9- "Short but Sweet" done 7/21 by Bill Morris and Pebby Johns. To get to the crack, simply follow the trial around the left side of the slab and scramble up and to the left and you should see it. Jul 29, 2001

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