Elevation: 6,022 ft
GPS: 40.245, -105.332 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 137,562 total · 1,458/month
Shared By: John McNamee on Oct 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

US 36 is a popular through road connecting Denver to Estes Park and continues into Rocky Mountain National Park. Along the stretch from Lyons to Estes Park is a canyon littered with rocks that draw the eye. Many of these crags lie on private property or are only reasonably accessed through private property, so check first.

The rock here varies from granitic to harder, metamorphic, igneous varieties that are more challenging to characterize. Crags here may range from micro routes to perhaps 1000 feet.

Some of these crags include the River Wall (once called the best crag in Colorado) at Button Rock Reservoir, other scattered crags near Button Rock, boulders at Big Elk Meadows (east of Estes Park along FR 118). There are some scattered crags in the area of Pinewood Springs which have had less-heralded ascents.

North St. Vrain

Lyons Area
Longmont Reservoir Area (aka Buttonrock)
Coulson Gulch - 2.9 mile hike from Johnny Park off CO 66

Further up US 36
Split Rocks
Animal Magnetism

Little Thompson drainage approach via US 36
Big Elk Meadows
The Palace
Raven's Roost
Kenny Mountain
Tomato Rock

Pinewood Area - between Little Thompson and North Fork of the St. Vrain
Button Rock
Button Slab
Pinewood Boulders, Tomato Rock

Off CO 7, via rough roads or Off US 36 through Johnny Park
Pierson Park
Pierson Point

Getting There

Some of this can be accessed from CR 41 off of US 36 between Lyons and Estes Park. Some of this can be accessed from Johnny Park off of the Little Valley Rd. from Fish Creek Rd. going south from Estes Park.

To get there from the west, you can go east from Estes Park along US 36. To access this area from Denver, head north on I-25, go NW on US 36 through Boulder to Lyons. No access this from the NE, you can go west on US 66 into Lyons, and then go west on US 36.

Other Activities

There is a Ciatano Winery located along the St. Vrain River at the Rock'n River just outside of Lyons with wine tasting from grapes grown from the Western Slope. Nice Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, and Viogner. $3 for 5 tasting. They have a picnic area with large trout in their pond. 11-5 F-M in Winter & 10-6 daily in Summer. 303.823.5011. Nice for apres climbing or early rainout days.

105 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Fork of the St. Vrain River

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 8
Sinister Minister
Boulder
V9 7C
 4
Shape Shifter AKA Crime & Punish…
Boulder
V9-10 7C+
 5
Get Over It
Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 20
Green Slab
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 41
Livewire
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 100
Introducing Meteor Dad
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 42
Escape from Alcatraz
Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
Pocket Hercules
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 143
Redneck Hero
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 26
Neurosurgeon
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 18
Big, Big, Monkey Man
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 35
Old Yellar
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 28
New Horizon
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 15
Brother From Another Planet
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 19
Le Diamant E'ternal
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sinister Minister Big Elk Meadows… > Sanctuary
 8
V3 6A Boulder
Shape Shifter AKA Crime & P… Big Elk Meadows… > Sanctuary
 4
V9 7C Boulder
Get Over It Big Elk Meadows… > Double Trouble Boulder
 5
V9-10 7C+ Boulder
Green Slab Longmont Reserv… > Buick Rocks & Hitler'…
 20
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Livewire Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 41
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Introducing Meteor Dad Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 100
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Escape from Alcatraz Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 42
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Pocket Hercules Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Redneck Hero Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 143
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Neurosurgeon Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 26
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Big, Big, Monkey Man Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 18
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Old Yellar Longmont Reserv… > Old Yellar Dome
 35
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
New Horizon Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 28
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Brother From Another Planet Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 15
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Le Diamant E'ternal Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 19
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in North Fork of the St. Vrain River »

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