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Scout Rock Climbing
Routes in Scout Rock
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Ambush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blood Brothers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Broken Arrow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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But for a Silver Bullet ... T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Comanche Warrior S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cornered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cornered to Blood Brothers S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dead Raccoon Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A3 |
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Exit Stage Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Funhouse Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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General Cluster's Last Stance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hunting Party S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In a Pinch aka Genie T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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KeeMoSabe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leaning Aid Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2 |
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Little Bear S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Living the Dream T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lone Ranger, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Love, Honor, and Belay T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rawhide S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Route 166 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scout Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sneak Attack S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Tom Thumb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tonto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Triple Mantel, The TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Roof Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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War Path S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Elevation: | 5,592 ft |
| GPS: | 40.204, -105.311 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 30,171 total · 139/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Description
Scout Rock is a small cliff situated right along the roadside in SSV canyon. The rock is variable in quality having some horrible chossy stuff that no one will climb and some excellent, consolidated granite. It holds a few trad routes, and it has seen some recent sport route development. The cliff faces South, gets great sun, and has been climbed throughout the year. Owing to its location at the bottom of the canyon, sun in winter is pretty sparse. Because Scout Rock is so close to the road, climbing here requires a lot of attention to the traffic. Some cars and trucks have been known to scream through the SSV, despite its sane speed limit. Nonetheless, it is fairly easy to keep out of the road, just be very aware.
There are now several trad climbs on the west side of Scout Rock, where the beginner/intermediate trad leader can work up the ladder of difficulty: Scout Route (5.5), Funhouse Chimney (5.5), But for a Silver Bullet... (5.6), The Lone Ranger (5.6), Route 166 (5.7), Tom Thumb (5.8+), Exit Stage Left (5.9-), and In a Pinch/Genie (5.11c).
Routes from downhill to uphill (R->L):
A. Little Bear, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
BA. KeeMoSabe, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
C1. Tonto, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
C2. ??, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
D1. Love, Honor, and Belay, 9+, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
D2. Living the Dream, 9+, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
E. Cornered, 9, 1p, 75', bolts.
EF. Cornered to Blood Brothers, 3, 1p, 20', bolts.
F. Blood Brothers, 7, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Leaning Aid Crack, A3, 1p, 70', gear.
H. Ambush, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Dead Raccoon Crack, 4 A3, 1p, gear.
J. Cold Chisel, 12, 1p, bolts & gear.
K. Hunting Party, 11, 1p, bolts.
L. Top Gun, 11, 1p, gear.
M. War Path, 13?, 2p, 100', p1 12-, p2 5.13?, bolts.
N. Comanche Warrior, 11, 1-2p, 85', p1 9, bolts.
O. In a Pinch, 11, 1p, gear.
P. Exit Stage Left, 9-, 1p, gear.
Q. Broken Arrow, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
R. Tom Thumb, 8+, 1p, 55', gear.
S1R. Var. The Lone Ranger, 6, 1p, 60', gear.
S2. But for a Silver Bullet..., 6, 1p, 75', gear.
T. General Cluster's Last Stance, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
U. Funhouse Chimney, 5, 1p, gear.
V. Rawhide, 10, 1p, 85', bolts.
W. Sneak Attack, 11, 1p, bolts.
X. Route 166, 7, 1p, gear.
Y. The Triple Mantel, 9+ - 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
Z. Scout Route, 5 1p, TR.
AA. Sacajaweah, 6, 1p, TR.
BB. Lambda, 10-, 1p, bolts.
Scout Slab - across the corridor (R->L):
A. Git 'Em Up Scout, 9, 1p, 75', bolts.
BA. Merit Badge, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
C1. Ring of Power, 4 or 6, 1p, 60', TR.
C2. The Sword That Was Broken, 3 vs. 5, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
There are now several trad climbs on the west side of Scout Rock, where the beginner/intermediate trad leader can work up the ladder of difficulty: Scout Route (5.5), Funhouse Chimney (5.5), But for a Silver Bullet... (5.6), The Lone Ranger (5.6), Route 166 (5.7), Tom Thumb (5.8+), Exit Stage Left (5.9-), and In a Pinch/Genie (5.11c).
Routes from downhill to uphill (R->L):
A. Little Bear, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
BA. KeeMoSabe, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
C1. Tonto, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
C2. ??, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
D1. Love, Honor, and Belay, 9+, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
D2. Living the Dream, 9+, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
E. Cornered, 9, 1p, 75', bolts.
EF. Cornered to Blood Brothers, 3, 1p, 20', bolts.
F. Blood Brothers, 7, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Leaning Aid Crack, A3, 1p, 70', gear.
H. Ambush, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Dead Raccoon Crack, 4 A3, 1p, gear.
J. Cold Chisel, 12, 1p, bolts & gear.
K. Hunting Party, 11, 1p, bolts.
L. Top Gun, 11, 1p, gear.
M. War Path, 13?, 2p, 100', p1 12-, p2 5.13?, bolts.
N. Comanche Warrior, 11, 1-2p, 85', p1 9, bolts.
O. In a Pinch, 11, 1p, gear.
P. Exit Stage Left, 9-, 1p, gear.
Q. Broken Arrow, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
R. Tom Thumb, 8+, 1p, 55', gear.
S1R. Var. The Lone Ranger, 6, 1p, 60', gear.
S2. But for a Silver Bullet..., 6, 1p, 75', gear.
T. General Cluster's Last Stance, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
U. Funhouse Chimney, 5, 1p, gear.
V. Rawhide, 10, 1p, 85', bolts.
W. Sneak Attack, 11, 1p, bolts.
X. Route 166, 7, 1p, gear.
Y. The Triple Mantel, 9+ - 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
Z. Scout Route, 5 1p, TR.
AA. Sacajaweah, 6, 1p, TR.
BB. Lambda, 10-, 1p, bolts.
Scout Slab - across the corridor (R->L):
A. Git 'Em Up Scout, 9, 1p, 75', bolts.
BA. Merit Badge, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
C1. Ring of Power, 4 or 6, 1p, 60', TR.
C2. The Sword That Was Broken, 3 vs. 5, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.
Classic Climbing Routes at Scout Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Sun Angles Details:
Weather Averages
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Photos
![Routes on the right side of Scout Rock:<br>
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1. [[Little Bear]]105750382, 11b, bolts.<br>
2. [[KeeMoSabe]]105749653, 9, bolts.<br>
3. [[Tonto]]106430187, 9+, bolts.<br>
5. [[Love, Honor, and Belay]]106430216, 9+, bolts and gear.<br>
6. [[Living the Dream]]106430226, 9+, bolts and gear.<br>
7. [[Cornered]]105750448, 9, bolts.](https://cdn-files.apstatic.com/climb/106430257_smallMed_1494107967.jpg)
9 Comments
More About Scout Rock
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Guidebooks (10)
Hint: It is NOT National Forrest. Oct 1, 2001
Golden, Co
Lambda has four bolts for lead pro and a two-bolt anchor just under the rim. Only one anchor bolt and one lead bolt have hangers, which spin. Close examination revealed that each of those two bolts spins with its hanger, meaning that each bolt is BROKEN inside each hole. Because those two bolts are NOT obviously dangerous to depend on, those should be crowbarred out ASAP. Except for a couple brief sections of Lambda, trad pro can be placed on the right side of the narrow face, then on the left, then in diagonal cracks in the upper half of the 40-foot route. Bring a full rack, including tiny to medium-large cams and doubles of 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots.
Who has removed the hangers from Lambda? Could be someone trying to scarf hangers for his project. Could be a crusty old trad who insists that it's leadable with removable gear, or that a TR is easy to set up. Could be Boulder County Parks and Open Space, the manager of the Hall Ranch Open Space, which lies behind Scout Rock.
This may answer the riddle posed by AC's comment posted here on Oct. 1, 2001. A look at a Boulder County Trails map shows the BCPOS/USFS boundary a bit north of the highway. Most of the climbs at Scout Rock appear to be on USFS or CDOT land. Perhaps Lambda is on BCPOS. Perhaps the anchor bolts atop the Scout Route/Triple Mantel/Route 166 were chopped by BCPOS. Lam, SR, TM, and 166 are the most northern routes at Scout Rock. There is NO signage or fence marking a boundary.
Years ago, BCPOS smashed many bolts and hangers on Bummers Rock, in the Betasso Preserve in Boulder Canyon. (Those bolts and hangers were obviously sabotaged, so a climber could decide to avoid leading the affected routes.) If BCPOS is vandalizing the rock and CREATING booby traps that could kill climbers, then BCPOS is 100% responsible for any injuries or death that could result. Yes, climbers should accept responsibility for their choices, but, when someone else sabotages bolts and leaves those in the rock as if usable, with good hangers that can be clipped, he/she/it is inviting climbers to clip bolts that he/she/it has drastically weakened. If BCPOS would allow climbing without attempting to sabotage it, then there would be no potential liability. Nov 30, 2012
Everyone else: maybe give Scout Rock climber a month to see this message and retrieve said QDs. After that, there are two free QDs for someone who needs them. They're nothing special (older biners, though still serviceable).
If I remember to do so, I'll remove this message in a month. Apr 9, 2015
Lyons, CO