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Routes in Scout Rock

Ambush S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blood Brothers S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Broken Arrow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
But for a Silver Bullet ... T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Comanche Warrior S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cornered S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cornered to Blood Brothers S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Dead Raccoon Crack T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A3
Exit Stage Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Funhouse Chimney TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
General Cluster's Last Stance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hunting Party S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
In a Pinch aka Genie T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
KeeMoSabe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaning Aid Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c A2
Little Bear S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Living the Dream T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lone Ranger, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Love, Honor, and Belay T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rawhide S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 166 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scout Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sneak Attack S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tom Thumb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tonto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Triple Mantle, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unknown Roof Route T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
War Path S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Scout Rock is a small cliff situated right along the roadside in SSV canyon. The rock is variable in quality having some horrible chossy stuff that no one will climb and some excellent, consolidated granite. It holds a few trad routes, and it has seen some recent sport route development. The cliff faces South, gets great sun, and has been climbed throughout the year. Owing to its location at the bottom of the canyon, sun in winter is pretty sparse. Because Scout Rock is so close to the road, climbing here requires a lot of attention to the traffic. Some cars and trucks have been known to scream through the SSV, despite its sane speed limit. Nonetheless, it is fairly easy to keep out of the road, just be very aware.

There are now several trad climbs on the west side of Scout Rock, where the beginner/intermediate trad leader can work up the ladder of difficulty: Scout Route (5.5), Funhouse Chimney (5.5), But for a Silver Bullet... (5.6), The Lone Ranger (5.6), Route 166 (5.7), Tom Thumb (5.8+), Exit Stage Left (5.9-), and In a Pinch/Genie (5.11c).

Routes from downhill to uphill (R->L):

A. Little Bear, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
BA. KeeMoSabe, 9, 1p, 70', bolts.
C1. Tonto, 9+, 1p, 50', bolts.
C2. ??, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
D1. Love, Honor, and Belay, 9+, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
D2. Living the Dream, 9+, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
E. Cornered, 9, 1p, 75', bolts.
EF. Cornered to Blood Brothers, 3, 1p, 20', bolts.
F. Blood Brothers, 7, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Leaning Aid Crack, A3, 1p, 70', gear.
H. Ambush, 12-, 1p, 60', bolts.
I. Dead Raccoon Crack, 4 A3, 1p, gear.
J. Cold Chisel, 12, 1p, bolts & gear.
K. Hunting Party, 11, 1p, bolts.
L. Top Gun, 11, 1p, gear.
M. War Path, 13?, 2p, 100', p1 12-, p2 5.13?, bolts.
N. Comanche Warrior, 11, 1-2p, 85', p1 9, bolts.
O. In a Pinch, 11, 1p, gear.
P. Exit Stage Left, 9-, 1p, gear.
Q. Broken Arrow, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
R. Tom Thumb, 8+, 1p, 55', gear.
S1R. Var. The Lone Ranger, 6, 1p, 60', gear.
S2. But for a Silver Bullet..., 6, 1p, 75', gear.
T. General Cluster's Last Stance, 9, 1p, bolts & gear.
U. Funhouse Chimney, 5, 1p, gear.
V. Rawhide, 10, 1p, 85', bolts.
W. Sneak Attack, 11, 1p, bolts.
X. Route 166, 7, 1p, gear.
Y. The Triple Mantle, 9+ - 10, 1p, bolts & gear.
Z. Scout Route, 5 1p, TR.
AA. Sacajaweah, 6, 1p, TR.
BB. Lambda, 10-, 1p, bolts.

Scout Slab - across the corridor (R->L):

A. Git 'Em Up Scout, 9, 1p, 75', bolts.
BA. Merit Badge, 12+, 1p, 80', bolts.
C1. Ring of Power, 4 or 6, 1p, 60', TR.
C2. The Sword That Was Broken, 3 vs. 5, 1p, 60', bolts & gear.

Getting There

From the intersection in Lyons, take CO Highway 7 up the SSV Canyon for 3.1 miles. Scout Rock is on the right, and parking is just off the road.

Rattlesnakes

Note: there are rattlesnakes that live in the drainage between the cliffs here.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Scout Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Jeff Dillon
Lyons, CO
Jeff Dillon   Lyons, CO
I have the draws Bernard mentions in the post above listed in the Lost and Found section. Apr 17, 2015
Scout Rock climber: you left a quickdraw part way up Broken Arrow and Rawhide. I retrieved them today (April 9, 2015) and clipped them to the first bolt of Rawhide: blue dog bones and brown tape on the biners.

Everyone else: maybe give Scout Rock climber a month to see this message and retrieve said QDs. After that, there are two free QDs for someone who needs them. They're nothing special (older biners, though still serviceable).

If I remember to do so, I'll remove this message in a month. Apr 9, 2015
Solo-toproped Sacajaweah and Lambda yesterday. Easy to set up TR using medium and large cams, extended where necessary. Sac is leadable with gear (mostly tiny and small cams in horizontals), although NOT for the 5.6 leader.

Lambda has four bolts for lead pro and a two-bolt anchor just under the rim. Only one anchor bolt and one lead bolt have hangers, which spin. Close examination revealed that each of those two bolts spins with its hanger, meaning that each bolt is BROKEN inside each hole. Because those two bolts are NOT obviously dangerous to depend on, those should be crowbarred out ASAP. Except for a couple brief sections of Lambda, trad pro can be placed on the right side of the narrow face, then on the left, then in diagonal cracks in the upper half of the 40-foot route. Bring a full rack, including tiny to medium-large cams and doubles of 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots.

Who has removed the hangers from Lambda? Could be someone trying to scarf hangers for his project. Could be a crusty old trad who insists that it's leadable with removable gear, or that a TR is easy to set up. Could be Boulder County Parks and Open Space, the manager of the Hall Ranch Open Space, which lies behind Scout Rock.

This may answer the riddle posed by AC's comment posted here on Oct. 1, 2001. A look at a Boulder County Trails map shows the BCPOS/USFS boundary a bit north of the highway. Most of the climbs at Scout Rock appear to be on USFS or CDOT land. Perhaps Lambda is on BCPOS. Perhaps the anchor bolts atop the Scout Route/Triple Mantel/Route 166 were chopped by BCPOS. Lam, SR, TM, and 166 are the most northern routes at Scout Rock. There is NO signage or fence marking a boundary.

Years ago, BCPOS smashed many bolts and hangers on Bummers Rock, in the Betasso Preserve in Boulder Canyon. (Those bolts and hangers were obviously sabotaged, so a climber could decide to avoid leading the affected routes.) If BCPOS is vandalizing the rock and CREATING booby traps that could kill climbers, then BCPOS is 100% responsible for any injuries or death that could result. Yes, climbers should accept responsibility for their choices, but, when someone else sabotages bolts and leaves those in the rock as if usable, with good hangers that can be clipped, he/she/it is inviting climbers to clip bolts that he/she/it has drastically weakened. If BCPOS would allow climbing without attempting to sabotage it, then there would be no potential liability. Nov 30, 2012
Andy Novak
Golden, Co
Andy Novak   Golden, Co
Watch rock fall in the area. Wear a helmet. All those fist-sized and above rocks at the base of the climbs clearly came from somewhere.... Jul 28, 2011
AC: If you were to rap down the flared crack, I think you are talking about it has some fixed aid gear in it (mainly a lot of mash-heads). At least that was how it was back in 2000-2001. May 24, 2004
I drive past this cliff all the time. I have stopped once. Most of the established climbs don't look particularly striking, but there is an overhanging, water streaked, headwall with a flared hand crack that looks brilliant. It definitely needs some brushing for a free ascent, I don't know if you could get gear in it, it is such a flare. may climb like a sloper problem. anyone know anything about this? May 1, 2002
Watch out for poison ivy at the base of this cliff... particularly at the bottom of Comanche Warrior. I had my first brush with the 'devil in vegetable form' here. The rash lasted more than a month. I will definitely be more observant next time! Apr 2, 2002
A Quiz: Do you know who this property belongs to?

Hint: It is NOT National Forrest. Oct 1, 2001

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