Type: Sport
FA: RMWright, ABS, 2001
Page Views: 1,380 total · 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the bolted line left of Rawhide. The ultra-thin face at the start has gotten thinner and thinner with each run through, so much so that one now almost requires a hand in the adjacent crack. A variation around to the right may pan out, but it is tenuous at best. Sequential moves above a [horizontal] band lead into some friable stone and a stance below the little roof. Move right and then cut back left to get established below the roof. Cool moves over the roof culminate in a big reach left to a good horn; should be quite hard if you don't have the ape index. A top-rope can be set up quite easily from above but use slings to drop the rope over the edge.

Addendum: the rock is a bit friable.

Protection

Ten draws and a rope.

Photos

Yes, the lower face is still shedding holds. Really fun when you get past that face. I eventually stemmed for feet onto the wall on the left. I think you can avoid hands there and just use feet, not sure what this does to the rating though. Jul 30, 2003
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
I tried the variation out right, and it was very good [until] the last few feet. I couldn't figure out a sequence to finish off. Lots of lichen on that corner. Aug 25, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
I think the horn at the top described as a "big reach left" may be gone. There is a decent rock scar. However, there is a lip at the rock scar that is, at least, serviceable, for now. Lots of cruxes, even on TR. Sep 30, 2005
Kat A
Boulder, CO
Kat A   Boulder, CO
This is a fun route though I'd recommend a helmet for both climber and belayer. Some of the underclinging holds near the top seem very hollow and sketchy, even though they have a fair amount of chalk on them. Nov 28, 2006
Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
  5.12a/b
Mike Robinson   Grand Junction, CO
  5.12a/b
If you stay on the slab and follow the bolt line directly this route is every bit of 12-. 11c/d if you go left and use the mini dihedral but the initial slab moves are definitely 12. Jul 10, 2007
Did this yesterday with Scotty, Phil, and Erin. Great route and thought every hold was sold! There is a nice edge above the roof and a great left edge just above the mantle type move! Solid route 95 percent clean there was a couple holds mid way that seemed a smidge hollow. 2 thumbs up!! Aug 14, 2009
Lizzy Scully
Lyons, Colorado
Lizzy Scully   Lyons, Colorado
If you use the crack left of the bolt line, which is where all the chalk is, it is not a 5.12a. It's more like 5.11a/b. Great route. Aug 17, 2009
Xtacicity
Wichita, KS
  5.11c
Xtacicity   Wichita, KS
  5.11c
I agree Leo, the horn is missing. We used the lip on the scar to finish the route as well. May 21, 2012
One of the anchor bolts at the top is missing a hanger and chain. Both anchor bolts are in fragile, crumbly rock. Back up with extension from anchors atop Rawhide. Nov 25, 2012
Definitely a good climb, but the bolt line is a little contrived. Makes more sense to stay in the crack until the bolts force you out right. Probably closer to 11-.
I don't think that going straight up the bolt line warrants a 12 rating either, way too featured to be a 5.12 slab.... Jul 31, 2013