Type: Trad, Sport, 45 ft
FA: Tom Woods, Lora Woods, and Bruno Hache, 5/12/09
Page Views: 1,535 total · 13/month
Shared By: Tom Woods on May 12, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Marriage vows for the modern climbing couple.

Love, Honor, and Belay is short but technical and burly route.

Start just left of Tonto, at the right edge of a slab. This is about 15' right of Cornered. Climb the slab, clipping a single bolt along the way. From a good stance near the top of the slab, place a piece of gear with a runner in a horizontal crack located between a good ledge and an upper wall. Move right on the ledge and place gear in the dihedral. Climb up the right face of the dihedral, and move back left to the dihedral, placing more gear. Work up the corner, clip a second top bolt, and exit right below a chockstone to the anchor. Lower from hooks.

Location

At the right edge of a slab, just left of Tonto, and 15' right of Cornered.

Protection

A selection of cams from #0.3 Camalot to #3 Camalot. 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Anchor shared with Living the Dream.

Photos

The crux on this route (at the slot) is pretty hard for 9+. How is it supposed to be done? My daughter went around the arete on the right, stemmed out onto Kemosabe, belly against the arete and clipped the bolt from there, then stepped onto an ample foothold on the arete ---- all instead of climbing in the slot. I don't think this is how this route was intended to be done, but in the slot seems a bit stiff for a 9+ rating. Sep 29, 2014