Type: TR
FA: Scouts of Troop 166
Page Views: 2,109 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jim Cormier on Aug 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Climb up the rock and enter into the most prominent chimney on the west face. Chimney angles slightly to the right. This is a great route for [beginners] and especially for a climber do their first chimney route.

Protection

Set up top rope from the chain anchor at the top of the chimney (they were placed by me about 6 years ago, in the location offering the cleanest rope use). WARNING_______ I strongly urge you to back up this anchor as some A__HOLE vandalized the bolt hanger to [the] right (Notice it was pounded flat and has marks like it was [beaten]). Whomever it was, this person was so desperate to take the KONG steel carabiner which was pinned to the chains. I may go replace this anchor in the future with new glue in bolts.

Photos

Jim Cormier
  5.5
Jim Cormier  
  5.5
Added 2 new glue in bolts to the top of the route on 8/11/01. I was unable to remove the old beaten bolt (Becuase the head was mashed and the wrench kept slipping. Aug 20, 2001
Petro
Golden, CO
Petro   Golden, CO
This fun chimney is filled with cracks, and protects very nicely. I used a #5, but it wasn't necessary. I don't know where we draw the line between spelunking and climbing though, but I was way inside that sucker. Jun 30, 2003
A variation to this climb: When you get roughly to the height of the anchor on "But For a Silver Bullet", step left, and finish up the highly featured offwidth. There are some loose blocks up there that look scary, so watch out where you stand. Fun exit, though. Maybe 5.7 if you stay off the really easy ledges? Aug 5, 2009
Alan Coon
Longmont, CO
  5.6
Alan Coon   Longmont, CO
  5.6
It's a bit of a tricky lead. The far inside corner doesn't offer much for protection. There are a few stuck rocks ripe for slinging. A #6 Camalot will work to the far inside, but usually it's gets tipped out. The small crack the runs in the middle of the rock is flared and offers nothing for pro. Bring a Bigbro or 2 to do it safely in my opinion. 2 glue in rap bolts and 2 half ass chopped bolts offer a great anchor. I'd advise against rapping down from them when there are 2 perfect new SS bolts with an excellent non-rope eating rap. They are just south east of where the top of Fun House Chimney is. You can miss them as they are nearly right on the top of the cliff with super easy access. You come down just to the west of Blood Brothers (5.7 sport traverse). Great views on the way down too! The last 15 ft or so are overhanging! Wahoo! Apr 6, 2015