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Areas in Lyons

Camp Dick 0 / 0 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Heil Valley Ranch 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lion's Den, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Rabbit Mountain 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
St. Vrain Canyons 368 / 189 / 51 / 55 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 555
Steamboat Mountain 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 5,345 ft
GPS: 40.223, -105.27 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 309,269 total · 2,022/month
Shared By: John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Lyons is a small town of approximately 1500 people located North of Boulder but part of Boulder County. It lies at the downhill end of the canyon connecting with Estes Park.

While there may be no towering cliffs here, there is some interesting climbing for those with patience to search out the hidden gems. The area nearby includes a variety of rock types, from Dakota Sandstone, a variety of sandstone layers in the cliffs just NW of town, coarse granite of the S. St. Vrain Canyon, and the smoother granite in the Button Rock area. Some of the rock here overlaps the descriptions of the Estes Valley area.

Getting There

From Boulder follow US 36 north for approximately 10 miles. Watch out for cyclists!

Map of Lyons

Food

Lyons is oddly a culinary hotspot which draws gourmands from a far.

Restaurants here include: Ophelia's Kitchen (burritos), Dairy Delight (for greasy burgers or soft serve), a great little Mexican restaurant (Cilantro Mary's), Soda Fountain (breakfast & sandwiches), the family restaurant (formerly the Outlaw, now Linda & Jeana's), Kokopelli's Italian, Oskar Blues Bar & Grill, Gateway Cafe (need reservations on popular evenings) ($$$), Andrea's ($$$), Black Bear Inn ($$$$)....

For ice cream, Lyons Dairy Bar has replaced the Dairy Delite.

Tubing/Waterfun

To be the heat after climbing on hot days, you can tube the St. Vrain after the spring runoff. Some put in above Lyons, on the south side (public land) of US 36. Some put in at the park northwest of the intersection of CO 7 and the St. Vrain. You can pullout at Bond Park.

Innertubes are sometimes sold in town for as low as $12.

Climbing Gear Resources

Estes Park Mountain Shop (US 34 near the dam on Lake Estes) has discount prices and decent selection and a small, indoor gym. Trail Ridge Outfitter's is another climbing shop located downtown on Elkhorn near Ed's Cantina with a small gym as well.

Neptune Mountaineering (Table Mesa Shopping Center). It is the oldest climbing shop in Boulder and has a great selection of gear and a knowledgeable staff. Thursday night slide shows are often with world-famous climbers. Check out their climbing museum: photos and climbing memorabilia from all over the world, including Edmund Hillary's boots, and a photo of Gaston Rebuffat running it out with just a hemp rope tied around his waist!

Rock and Resole was originally primarily a rock and ice boot resoler. As of 2017, they have become an "outfitter" carrying shoes, tools, aid gear, bouldering gear, cams, and ropes.

Bent Gate Mountaineering on Washington St. carries rock, bouldering, ice, and snow gear and is the closest gear shop in Golden.

REI, a long time outdoor co-op, located in various locations including Denver, Boulder, and Westminster, carries rock, snow, and ice gear.

600 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lyons

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 51
Community Service (formerly Little Fl…
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 60
Handcrack-a-rete
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 56
Remission
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Hollow Man
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 54
Casual Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 89
KeeMoSabe
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 61
Sunshine Dihedral
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 72
Upside The Cranium
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 49
Panic in the Gray Room
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 45
Rawhide
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 77
Introducing Meteor Dad
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 103
Redneck Hero
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Temptation Arete
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 24
New Horizon
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 24
Old Yellar
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Community Service (formerly… St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Upper Infirmary Slabs
 51
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Handcrack-a-rete St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Coliseum
 60
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Remission St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Upper Infirmary Slabs
 56
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Hollow Man St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Coliseum
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Casual Corner St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Monkey Skull
 54
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
KeeMoSabe St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Scout Rock
 89
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Sunshine Dihedral St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Monkey Skull
 61
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Upside The Cranium St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Monkey Skull
 72
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Panic in the Gray Room St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Upper Infirmary Slabs
 49
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Rawhide St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Scout Rock
 45
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Introducing Meteor Dad St. Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 77
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Redneck Hero St. Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 103
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Temptation Arete St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. V… > Trojan Bunny Buttress
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Horizon St. Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
 24
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Old Yellar St. Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > Old Yellar Dome
 24
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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Bernard Gillett's new ROCK CLIMBING ST. VRAIN CANYONS is now available. It's a 424 page comprehensive guide. You'll want to have this one if you're bored with the other canyons. Dec 11, 2008
sasso
loveland
sasso   loveland
Does anyone know the grade and names of the four or so sport routes that are right off the entrance road to Lion's Den and the starts are on the water, right below the dam? Jul 26, 2013
For those who need an ice cream fix after their day on the rocks, Dairy Delite went away a few years ago. It has been replaced by Lyons Dairy Bar ... this is a considerable upgrade! Jul 4, 2017

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