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Lyons Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Lyons

Camp Dick 0 / 0 / 0 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30

Glacier View Ranch 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Heil Valley Ranch 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

L Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Lion's Den, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 30 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30

Rabbit Mountain 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Scientology Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

St. Vrain Canyons 452 / 210 / 64 / 94 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 706

Steamboat Mountain 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

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Elevation:	5,345 ft	1,629 m
GPS:	40.2229, -105.27 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,116,952 total · 4,888/month
Shared By:	John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Lyons is a small town of approximately 1500 people located North of Boulder but part of Boulder County. It lies at the downhill end of the canyon connecting with Estes Park.

While there may be no towering cliffs here, there is some interesting climbing for those with patience to search out the hidden gems. The area nearby includes a variety of rock types, from Dakota Sandstone, a variety of sandstone layers in the cliffs just NW of town, coarse granite of the S. St. Vrain Canyon, and the smoother granite in the Button Rock area. Some of the rock here overlaps the descriptions of the Estes Valley area.

Getting There

From Boulder follow US 36 north for approximately 10 miles. Watch out for cyclists!

Map of Lyons

Food

Lyons is oddly a culinary hotspot which draws gourmands from a far.

Restaurants here include: Ophelia's Kitchen (burritos), Dairy Delight (for greasy burgers or soft serve), a great little Mexican restaurant (Cilantro Mary's), Soda Fountain (breakfast & sandwiches), the family restaurant (formerly the Outlaw, now Linda & Jeana's), Kokopelli's Italian, Oskar Blues Bar & Grill, Gateway Cafe (need reservations on popular evenings) ($$$), Andrea's ($$$), Black Bear Inn ($$$$)....

For ice cream, Lyons Dairy Bar has replaced the Dairy Delite.

Tubing/Waterfun

To be the heat after climbing on hot days, you can tube the St. Vrain after the spring runoff. Some put in above Lyons, on the south side (public land) of US 36. Some put in at the park northwest of the intersection of CO 7 and the St. Vrain. You can pullout at Bond Park.

Innertubes are sometimes sold in town for as low as $12.

Climbing Gear Resources

Per Wild Cat: Wildcat Mountaineering at 430 Main Street in Lyons has a comprehensive selection of climbing equipment, knowledgeable locals, and guides.

Estes Park Mountain Shop (US 34 near the dam on Lake Estes) has discount prices and decent selection and a small, indoor gym. Trail Ridge Outfitter's is another climbing shop located downtown on Elkhorn near Ed's Cantina with a small gym as well.

Neptune Mountaineering (Table Mesa Shopping Center). It is the oldest climbing shop in Boulder and has a great selection of gear and a knowledgeable staff. Thursday night slide shows are often with world-famous climbers. Check out their climbing museum: photos and climbing memorabilia from all over the world, including Edmund Hillary's boots, and a photo of Gaston Rebuffat running it out with just a hemp rope tied around his waist!

Rock and Resole was originally primarily a rock and ice boot resoler. As of 2017, they have become an "outfitter" carrying shoes, tools, aid gear, bouldering gear, cams, and ropes.

Bent Gate Mountaineering on Washington St. carries rock, bouldering, ice, and snow gear and is the closest gear shop in Golden.

REI, a long time outdoor co-op, located in various locations including Denver, Boulder, and Westminster, carries rock, snow, and ice gear.

783 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lyons

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V4 6B PG13 26 ● Big Cat Boulder Lion's Den
V6 7A 28 ● Hyperion Proboscis Boulder Lion's Den
V10 7C+ 9 ● Get Over It Boulder St Vrain Canyons > … > Big Elk Meadows… > Double Trouble Boulder
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 132 ● Upside The Cranium Sport St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Monkey Skull
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 191 ● Introducing Meteor Dad Sport St Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 291 ● Redneck Hero Sport St Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R 52 ● Neurosurgeon Trad St Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 89 ● Temptation Arete Sport St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Trojan Bunny Buttress
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 36 ● Big, Big, Monkey Man Trad St Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 49 ● Old Yellar Sport St Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > Old Yellar Dome
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 55 ● New Horizon Sport St Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 40 ● Botany of Desire Sport St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Trojan Bunny Buttress
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 21 ● Brother From Another Planet Sport St Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c 34 ● Le Diamant E'ternal Sport St Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a 11 ● Aquadarius Sport St Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reserv… > River Wall II