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Areas in Lyons

Camp Dick 0 / 0 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Lion's Den, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 21 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Rabbit Mountain 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
St. Vrain Canyons 322 / 179 / 47 / 48 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 491
Steamboat Mountain 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

Lyons is a small town of approximately 1500 people located North of Boulder but part of Boulder County. It lies at the downhill end of the canyon connecting with Estes Park.

While there may be no towering cliffs here, there is some interesting climbing for those with patience to search out the hidden gems. The area nearby includes a variety of rock types, from Dakota Sandstone, a variety of sandstone layers in the cliffs just NW of town, coarse granite of the S. St. Vrain Canyon, and the smoother granite in the Button Rock area. Some of the rock here overlaps the descriptions of the Estes Valley area.

Getting There

From Boulder follow US 36 north for approximately 10 miles. Watch out for cyclists!

Map of Lyons

Food

Lyons is oddly a culinary hotspot which draws gourmands from a far.

Restaurants here include: Ophelia's Kitchen (burritos), Dairy Delight (for greasy burgers or soft serve), a great little Mexican restaurant (Cilantro Mary's), Soda Fountain (breakfast & sandwiches), the family restaurant (formerly the Outlaw, now Linda & Jeana's), Kokopelli's Italian, Oskar Blues Bar & Grill, Gateway Cafe (need reservations on popular evenings) ($$$), Andrea's ($$$), Black Bear Inn ($$$$)....

For ice cream, Lyons Dairy Bar has replaced the Dairy Delite.

Tubing/Waterfun

To be the heat after climbing on hot days, you can tube the St. Vrain after the spring runoff. Some put in above Lyons, on the south side (public land) of US 36. Some put in at the park northwest of the intersection of CO 7 and the St. Vrain. You can pullout at Bond Park.

Innertubes are sometimes sold in town for as low as $12.

532 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lyons

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service (formerly Little Fl…
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Handcrack-a-rete
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unleash The Lions
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Remission
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollow Man
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
KeeMoSabe
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Panic in the Gray Room
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sunshine Dihedral
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Upside The Cranium
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rawhide
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Introducing Meteor Dad
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Redneck Hero
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
New Horizon
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Old Yellar
Sport
Community Service (formerly… St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Upper Infirmary Slabs 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Handcrack-a-rete St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Coliseum 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Unleash The Lions St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Coliseum 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Remission St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Upper Infirmary Slabs 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Hollow Man St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Coliseum 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Casual Corner St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Monkey Skull 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
KeeMoSabe St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Scout Rock 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Panic in the Gray Room St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Upper Infirmary Slabs 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Sunshine Dihedral St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Monkey Skull 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Upside The Cranium St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Monkey Skull 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rawhide St. Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St. Vra… > Scout Rock 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Introducing Meteor Dad St. Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reservoi… > River Wall II 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Redneck Hero St. Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reservoi… > River Wall II 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
New Horizon St. Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reservoi… > River Wall II 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Old Yellar St. Vrain Canyons > … > Longmont Reservoi… > Old Yellar Dome 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Lyons »

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For those who need an ice cream fix after their day on the rocks, Dairy Delite went away a few years ago. It has been replaced by Lyons Dairy Bar ... this is a considerable upgrade! Jul 4, 2017
sasso
loveland
sasso   loveland
Does anyone know the grade and names of the four or so sport routes that are right off the entrance road to Lion's Den and the starts are on the water, right below the dam? Jul 26, 2013
Bernard Gillett's new ROCK CLIMBING ST. VRAIN CANYONS is now available. It's a 424 page comprehensive guide. You'll want to have this one if you're bored with the other canyons. Dec 11, 2008

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