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All Locations > Colorado > Lyons > St. Vrain Canyons > North Fork of t… > Longmont Reserv… > Old Yellar Dome

Old Yellar

5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British


 Avg: 3.9 from 24 votes

Routes in Old Yellar Dome

Old Yellar S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: [S. Hong & P. Adams]
Page Views: 5,628 total · 29/month
Shared By: Adam Holmes on Dec 31, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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24 Opinions

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Description

Long, technical, steep, pumpy -- what more could you ask for? Old Yellar is a great granite route that's technical down low. Then, midway up, you enter a vicious undercling to enter the steep second half with a heartbreak crux at the end. It's well worth the short hike to get up there.

Protection

9 bolts + anchors

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Photos

Matt about to start the "upper crux".
Matt about to start the "upper crux".
 2
Photo by Jeff Parmenter
Photo by Jeff Parmenter
 2
Pulling through the final moves on a beautiful evening. <br> <br> Photo credit: Matthew Maloney.
Pulling through the final moves on a beautiful…
 1
Kai nearing the top.
Kai nearing the top.
 1
At the base of Old Yellar Dome
At the base of Old Yellar Dome
 0
Jeff sending
Jeff sending
 0

14 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
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Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
First ascent: Hong / Adams. Apr 1, 2004
Ben Randolph
Boulder, CO
 
Ben Randolph   Boulder, CO
 
This route is amazing. Definitely a heartbreak crux at the end. Long, sustained, and pumpy for sure. Sick!! Jun 11, 2006
Joe Collins
 
Joe Collins  
 
This route has 4-star climbing with 2-star rock quality. Several key holds may not stand the test of time, particularly the key crimp where you move back left near the 2nd to last bolt.

Steepest route in the Front Range? The crux may be in figuring out how get a warm up for it. Jun 11, 2007
Jesse Ryan
Jesse Ryan  
Crux crimp broke this summer. Have not been on it since, likely harder now. Nov 22, 2008
EJM
  5.13a
EJM  
  5.13a
Got on this rig today, I think it gets my vote for best 13a on the Front Range. Awesome line. Nice and stout.

Didn't notice any broken or missing grips..it's all there. Aug 2, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Well, first you'd have to get people to agree on which routes on the Front Range are 13a. Good luck with that! Aug 3, 2009
EJM
  5.13a
EJM  
  5.13a
...yeah, pretty sure I'm not going to waste my time with that one. Aug 3, 2009
Jamie gatchalian
denver, co
  5.13a/b
Jamie gatchalian   denver, co
  5.13a/b
Was up there today, 4.4.10, and my friend broke off the the low crux undercling. It still goes but is harder. Between that hold and the high crimp having broken a while back, this thing now feels more 13b than 13a. Apr 4, 2010
chris schulte
chris schulte  
Are the listed projects still projects? Jun 14, 2010
Swavek Gaik
Superior, CO
Swavek Gaik   Superior, CO
Somebody stole the hanger from the sixth bolt. I replaced it, but leave it alone. If you feel too safe, just don't clip it (or any other bolts). Jan 29, 2012
Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Brett Merlin   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Took down and threw away all the fixed tat on this line on 3/24/12. They were completely sun-bleached and sketchy looking. Mar 26, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
5 star route. Zero star approach. Worth it though, and I would say it's a contender for one of the top 13a's in the state. So, so good! Oct 3, 2016
Pinklebear
 
Pinklebear  
 
Feels hard, like 13a+, but I was never on it before the two key holds (undercling and match crimp) crumbled, so.... Stellar route, rad position and angle. Lots of mini-cruxes and a punchy finish. Would be hard 8a in Europe, but since this is the Front Range, land of a never-ending supply of ego-downraters, it's probably "soft 12d." Get some! Oct 25, 2017
Dillon Manzanares
Denver
Dillon Manzanares   Denver
The 6th bolt seems to have gone missing. You can clip the 7th from the juggy flake, but it is still a little runout. Jul 26, 2018 · Temporary Report

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