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Routes in River Wall II

Arresting Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Big, Big, Monkey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Box, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brother From Another Planet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Introducing Meteor Dad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Diamant E'ternal S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Livewire T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neurosurgeon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
New Horizon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Hercules T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redneck Hero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surround Sound S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Please Add
Page Views: 4,770 total, 24/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Oct 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

A nice technical climb up the right side of River Wall. Climbs the bolted face just left of the obvious chimney corner (the Box). Carefully reach the 1st bolt and attack the face above. Several catchy sections involve delicate feet to reach the next holds. Edgy, pumpy, delicate and fun.

Protection

Six bolts to two bolt anchor.

Photos

Climbed on a warm day in March, and the base was dry and roomy. The water keeps things cool, though, so it probably needs to be pretty warm to be comfortable. Mar 19, 2017
Luke Toillion
Longmont, CO
 
Luke Toillion   Longmont, CO
 
Climbed this one on 6/01/16. What a fun route! Getting to the first clip was a bit sketchy, but it was well-bolted after that. The slabby section had some very thoughtful moves, so don't be afraid to get creative. We had to take off our shoes and skirt around the edge of the cliff in icy water, but the belay stance was dry. Highly recommended! Jun 1, 2016
Diggin' this route, felt a bit sketchy at times but good moves up to the finish! Kinda run-out on a couple of bolts! Good lead, Scotty, I'd agree with you on being a fav this year! Sep 29, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
This route one of my favorites this year. A very tricky lead, but everything is there. 10d. Sep 15, 2008
Bill Farrand  
 
This is a really great climb! We were out at Buttonrock and there were no other climbers. Some of the other climbs are sub-prime, but this one is definitely a fun one... really good. Aug 3, 2008
Nice route! Blowing either the second or third clips could be bad I think. The third clip just felt a little tenuous as the stance isn't all that great (compared to the rest of the route). Jul 29, 2005
XOG
 
XOG  
 
I think it's the 3rd clip that is the main one not to blow (although it wouldn't be good to miss the 2nd either). There is a committing move to get to the clipping stance for bolt 3, but the stance itself has good feet, so just making the move is the main thing. Very cool crux move (think mantle) and the easier upper section is pure fun. Jul 25, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Excellent route. Don't blow the second clip! The bolts were spaced a little far, but just where you need them. It required a wade thanks to the little dam below. The area from Livewire to Neurosurgeon was the only spot not flooded. Sep 5, 2003
This route actually has seven bolts. The book doesn't show a bolt in the lower roof section but there is one. Two coldshuts anchor the top. If you like bolted face this is an excellent route and worth the trip. Oct 7, 2002