Elevation: 6,020 ft
GPS: 40.229, -105.345 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 80,355 total · 333/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: No longer closed! Details

Description

This great little crag sits immediately below the Buttonrock Resevior spillway and is packed with stellar sport and trad routes. The climbs range from super technical 'slab' routes such as Introducing Meteor Dad (10+) and Le Diamant E'ternal (13-) to pumpy overhanging face climbs; Escape from Alcatraz (11), Red Neck Hero (12-) and Brother from Another Planet (13) to steep cracks with both jamming and edges like Pocket Hercules (11+), Neurosurgeon (12-) and Lost Horizon (14-). Many of the lines can be set up on toprope if desired - take care! An excellent place to spend the day cranking!

Getting There

Drive about 3 miles down County Road 80 and park at the gate. Walk down the road a short distance passing a toilet on the right. Your first visit continue up the road as it crosses the river and get a perfect view of all the lines. To access the steep lines New Horizon through Pocket Hercules walk down to the river and cross on rocks just below the spillway to the left side of the cliff base. This access might be impassible during high river (May through July?). During very low water it is sometimes possible (sandals, barfoot and-or poles help) to access the pedestal at the base of Escape from Alcatraz. For all of the lines right of Pocket Hercules, starting with Red Neck Hero and Escape from Alcatraz approach via a steep path up a short sandy hill behind the toilet. This approach involves a short bouldery approach on large positive yet slick holds just above the water = warmup? It is also possible to (1) climb the hillside right of the road prior to the toilet or (2) climb the bolted yet anchorless Pooh Corner (5.8) to attain the top of river wall and rappel to the desired side of river wall.

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at River Wall II

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 47
Livewire
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 131
Introducing Meteor Dad
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 53
Escape from Alcatraz
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Surround Sound
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 20
Pocket Hercules
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
Social Dispensing
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 198
Redneck Hero
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 37
Neurosurgeon
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 28
Big, Big, Monkey Man
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 38
New Horizon
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 18
Brother From Another Planet
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 24
Le Diamant E'ternal
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 4
Aquadarius
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Livewire
 47
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Introducing Meteor Dad
 131
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Escape from Alcatraz
 53
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Surround Sound
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pocket Hercules
 20
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Social Dispensing
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Redneck Hero
 198
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Neurosurgeon
 37
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Big, Big, Monkey Man
 28
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
New Horizon
 38
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Brother From Another Planet
 18
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Le Diamant E'ternal
 24
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
Aquadarius
 4
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
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