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Routes in River Wall II

Arresting Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big, Big Gunky Man T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Big, Big, Monkey Man T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Box, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Brother From Another Planet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dihedral [River Wall] aka Shades of Murky Depths S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escape from Alcatraz S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Introducing Meteor Dad S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Le Diamant E'ternal S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Livewire T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neurosurgeon T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
New Horizon S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Hercules T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redneck Hero S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Surround Sound S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Description

This great little crag sits immediately below the Buttonrock Resevior spillway and is packed with stellar sport and trad routes. The climbs range from super technical 'slab' routes such as Introducing Meteor Dad (10+) and Le Diamant E'ternal (13-) to pumpy overhanging face climbs; Escape from Alcatraz (11), Red Neck Hero (12-) and Brother from Another Planet (13) to steep cracks with both jamming and edges like Pocket Hercules (11+), Neurosurgeon (12-) and Lost Horizon (14-). Many of the lines can be set up on toprope if desired - take care! An excellent place to spend the day cranking!
CLOSED for 2014 Details

Getting There

Drive about 3 miles down County Road 80 and park at the gate. Walk down the road a short distance passing a toilet on the right. Your first visit continue up the road as it crosses the river and get a perfect view of all the lines. To access the steep lines New Horizon through Pocket Hercules walk down to the river and cross on rocks just below the spillway to the left side of the cliff base. This access might be impassible during high river (May through July?). During very low water it is sometimes possible (sandals, barfoot and-or poles help) to access the pedestal at the base of Escape from Alcatraz. For all of the lines right of Pocket Hercules, starting with Red Neck Hero and Escape from Alcatraz approach via a steep path up a short sandy hill behind the toilet. This approach involves a short bouldery approach on large positive yet slick holds just above the water = warmup? It is also possible to (1) climb the hillside right of the road prior to the toilet or (2) climb the bolted yet anchorless Pooh Corner (5.8) to attain the top of river wall and rappel to the desired side of river wall.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at River Wall II

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Geoff U
Centennial, CO
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
This wall gets full sun starting near 11 am, though Red Neck stays shaded a bit longer. It is 5 min. approach from parking lot. River was plenty low to cross and give a dry belay in October. Oct 3, 2016
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
Much of the fixed hardware at this cliff has been replaced with new powers bolts. Thanks to whoever put forth the effort and funds to do this. 'Redneck Hero' has new bolts, and anchors on several walls are new. Mar 30, 2010
Bryan Hylenski
Gyeongsan, South Korea
Bryan Hylenski   Gyeongsan, South Korea
River wall has a classic 5-10d sport route, "Introducing Meteor Dad." If you live in Lyons or are travelling thru, the riverwall is a must stop. The climbs are never crowded, the rock is solid and very well protected. Most people in Boulder feel there too good for Lyons climbing. But River Wall and a few other areas have some classic climbs. If you are going to climb in this area, get Peter Hubbell's Falcon Guide book "Classic Rock Climbs No. 23 -- Lyons Area Colorado." Other great areas in Lyons that are completely isolated, right off the road and great climbing:Mushroom Massif, Piz Badille and Monkey Skull. Jul 31, 2003

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