Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen, 1985. Retrobolted
Page Views: 2,407 total · 19/month
Shared By: Scott Matz on Sep 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Access Issue: No longer closed! Details

Description

This route starts following an arete leaning right, soon traversing left into a mean offwidth protected by the third and forth bolt. The next lead out section can be climbed with little pro up to an 1 1/2". or just ran out to the last bolt (5.8+) just under the roof of Introducing Meteor Dad.

Location

This is the route just left of Introducing Meteor Dad. It has a two bolt anchor.

Protection

Climbing 4 bolts to a hollow flake. Gear up to an 1" or so. Caution, place at the bottom of flake (wiggly at top). Traverse back right to last bolt, and this climb shares anchor with Introducing Meteor Dad.

Photos

The route described here is Live Wire (not listed on this site), climbed by Mark Wilford and Steve Mammen in 1985. Someone retro-bolted the route in the last couple years (4 bolts at the bottom, followed by a finger crack, and then two bolts at the top -- these last two bolts protect 10 feet of original climbing, as Wilford and Mammen likely finished out to the left). Sep 16, 2008
Great route, really run-out after the last bolt but all the moves are there! Was wondering why there weren't bolts for this climb at the top, had to share the anchor with "Introducing Meteor Dad". Overall good moves thought the crux was about mid-way up through the left-facing dihedral! Pretty thin hands and smeary feet! 2 thumbs up! Sep 29, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
  5.10c/d
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
  5.10c/d
Great start, somewhat exposed, had to place some small gear before the last bolt I got skerd. Oct 1, 2008
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
  5.10c/d
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
  5.10c/d
Thanks G. I love the finger crack, and the lay backs, but the top could use some work. The last ran out bolt, to the shared anchor of Meteor Dad, they might as well have put another anchor up, since they ruined the original route, and now confusing others. Nov 3, 2008
Jeff G.
Lyons
  5.10c
Jeff G.   Lyons
  5.10c
This is a really good pitch, well worth doing. Almost as good as Meteor Dad IMO. May 1, 2010
half-pad-mini-jug
crauschville
 
half-pad-mini-jug   crauschville
 
I agree, this is a really fun pitch, but I still like Meteor Dad a little better. May 2, 2010
Garrett Bales
Lake City, CO
  5.11a
Garrett Bales   Lake City, CO
  5.11a
There is no way this is 10c, the final move over the roof to the anchors is a little thin for ten. Even if we we're in Eldo. Apr 7, 2012
justin dubois
Estes Park
justin dubois   Estes Park
It's really bad style that this route was retro-bolted. It's a beautiful and interesting line, and never too dangerous. Clipping bolts on this only detracts from the experience. The bolters also tried to force you to climb right, where the natural line obviously stays a little left, where there is plentiful gear and holds. Almost worthy of a chop. Dec 9, 2012
I agree, Justin, this is a pleasurable trad climb and protects well; no rhyme or reason to sidetrack on a gay adventure. Dec 31, 2012
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
  5.10b PG13
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
  5.10b PG13
Having to reach back down to the right to clip one of the earlier bolts on the blank face, I was wondering if I was off route, then near the top the cracks were flexing. I wanted to step right to the small crack, but the natural line goes left, and so did I to the double bolt anchor above Escape From Alcatraz. Aug 21, 2018