Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Piana, 1985
Page Views: 5,418 total · 27/month
Shared By: Jim Redo on Mar 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is the crack 25 feet left of "Redneck Hero". Steep and pumpy this route has good pro and fun movement. The route "Big, Big Monkey Man" splits off about mid way up. Best to do this route when the river is low. i.e. spring, fall. At the top traverse right to a bolted anchor at the top of "Big, Big Monkey Man."


#5 RP through #2 Friend. 3 #1.5 Friends.


Malcolm Daly
Boulder, CO
Malcolm Daly   Boulder, CO
Mark Wilford discovered this crag in the mid-eighties when Jeff Lowe's company, Latok, was located downstream in Lyons. Four of us (Jeff, Mark, Steve Mammen, and I) went up one afternoon to climb here and we all epic'd. Mark and Steve took the thin crack line of what is now called Pocket Hercules so Jeff and I got the Neurosurgeon line. Here's what I saw:

Steve was more of a boulderer so Mark took the lead on their line. The water was low and the flat slabs at the base were slick so Steve belayed fairly far to the left; maybe 25'. Mark traversed to the base of the crack and clipped in one of his half-ropes to an upward pulling directional. Then he started up and after about 10' placed his first downward pulling cam. He cruised the crack, clipping alternately, and was virtually at the top when he stopped to place a last cam. He got a good one in and was pulling up the rope to clip when his hold broke and he fell. By the time he stopped falling, Steve had been dragged 20' to the right (There's is not much in the way of anchors there) and Mark was hanging about 2' above the water and getting closer as Steve tried desperately not to get dragged farther across the slab. Mark was screaming at Steve not to let him down into the water (the route overhangs about 20' so Mark was out over the water), Steve was freakin' because he didn't want to let Mark down, but there wasn't anything he could do about it and Jeff and I were laughing so hard we had to quit for the day. Well, Mark got all wet so they bagged it and we all went for beers.

What happened was that when Mark fell the weight came on the rope which was through the directional. It pulled, leaving about 30' of slack. Between the slack and Steve getting pulled across the ledge Mark ended up taking a 50 or 60-footer.

Same story as for Neurosurgeon here. I told Piana about the epic and the cliff and by the time we got back to climbing there he had bagged the ascents of both routes.

Malcolm Apr 16, 2003
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
That's a great story, This wall is a super quality Crag, I love it. Apr 21, 2009
Adam Sanders
Erie, CO
Adam Sanders   Erie, CO
I love this route! It's a bit more logistically annoying, but it's part the experience, I guess. I recommend lots in the 0.75 Camalot size if you're thinking you might hang some (in the neighborhood of 7 is actually a good idea). It's pumpy! I also found the 3 smallest TCUs nice for the start, but there are other options. Dec 1, 2012
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Really enjoyable route that is tricky and pumpy all at the same time. I thought (3) x 0.75s felt sufficient especially if you have triples in 0.5s. There was a rope anchor up and climber's left that allowed for an easy descent back to your packs. Aug 12, 2013