Elevation: 6,031 ft
GPS: 40.229, -105.345 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,577 total · 391/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: No longer closed! Details

Description

Also located west of Lyons, this area is cousin to the South Saint Vrain (SSV). Like the SSV there are both trad and sport routes on a variety of features. Rock quality varies from superb to choss. One of Buttonrock's centerpieces is the classic River Wall. This steep wall has steep cracks alongside of both technical and pumpy sport routes. Well-known climbers from Boulder and around the Front Range developed this area in the last three decades. The best climbing season is whenever it isn't precipitating, possibly year-round as the aspect of the formations is diverse. River Wall in particular has midday sun, but is often chilly due to breeze off the river. The Falcon guide to Lyons area covers both Buttonrock and the SSV.

Getting There

Drive to Lyons on CO 66, this can be reached via US 36 from Boulder. Continue past the junction in Lyons of US 36 and CO Hwy 7 (CO Hwy 7 takes one to the SSV) for about 3.7 miles. Look carefully on the left for a sign for Shelly's Cottages. Turn left here on County Road 80. One half-mile on the left are Entryway Slabs, another tenth of a mile are Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life. About 2.3 miles further one reaches a steel gate and parking. One can hike along the road to reach River Wall, Old Yellar, and other formations.

43 Total Climbs

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Location: Longmont Reservoir Area (aka Buttonrock) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Longmont Reservoir Area (aka Buttonrock)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Tigers in Lipstick
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Green Slab
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 42
Livewire
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 109
Introducing Meteor Dad
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 43
Escape from Alcatraz
Sport, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Surround Sound
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 17
Pocket Hercules
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 157
Redneck Hero
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 27
Neurosurgeon
Trad
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 18
Big, Big, Monkey Man
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 36
Old Yellar
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 29
New Horizon
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 15
Brother From Another Planet
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 21
Le Diamant E'ternal
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Tigers in Lipstick Tigers in Lipstick
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Green Slab Buick Rocks & Hitler'…
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Livewire River Wall II
 42
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Introducing Meteor Dad River Wall II
 109
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Escape from Alcatraz River Wall II
 43
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
Surround Sound River Wall II
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pocket Hercules River Wall II
 17
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Redneck Hero River Wall II
 157
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Neurosurgeon River Wall II
 27
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad
Big, Big, Monkey Man River Wall II
 18
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad
Old Yellar Old Yellar Dome
 36
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
New Horizon River Wall II
 29
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Brother From Another Planet River Wall II
 15
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Le Diamant E'ternal River Wall II
 21
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Longmont Reservoir Area (aka Buttonrock) »

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