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Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

These three crags sit on the same hillside facing SW. The routes are mostly short (less than 80 feet) trad and mixed routes requiring some natural protection, often toprope-able. The grades range from 5.7-5.11. Although the 15+ possible routes here are not the best in this area, the Green Slab (5.9+) on Buick Rocks 1st Buttress and an unnamed face route (5.10) on Buick Rocks 2nd Buttress are worthwhile climbs. The approach is a short but loose rocky trail up from the pullout.
CLOSED for 2014 Details

Getting There

From the Shelly Cottage turnoff follow County Road 80 about .6 miles, 0.1 miles past the Entryway slabs. Pullout on the left or right and hike up to the right to the crags.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Green Slab
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Green Slab 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
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HSL is the name of a Piana/Lavender route near the right end of the rock. Having possibly done the FA of the Initial Route, 11 years before their effort, I suggest naming this Buick Rock 3, in keeping with the theme in Gillett's guidebook. Jul 15, 2012
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
There is a large quanity of poison Ivy here so know what to avoid before hiking up. The OH crack on the left inset rocks is pretty good but harder than 5.8 given in the book, and there is a moderate bolted line to its left, 10 or 9.

How did this place get this screwy name HSL? I'd vote to change the name back to the orginal name used by locals, and toss the name used in the guide book. Jul 15, 2006
Umph!  
I actually agree with Hubbel's guide for this area in re: to "stars": Green Slab** is certainly worth doing as is The Buick*, and Unknown Face**. . . the [latter] being my favorite here. There's potential for more lines although, there is a sign posted (Boulder County I think) that says NO fixed hardware can be added. If you hike up to the [aqueduct] you'll find some nice lines up there (some trad. and some TR). If you are heading up the canyon or going to River Wall (et al.) then you should stop to climb these (the approach is 2 minutes). Oct 13, 2005

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