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Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 475 total, 3/month
Shared By: Michael Walker on Apr 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

Energon Cube has a surprising mix of good and bad for a short pitch, sometimes killer hand jams, sometimes crumbly kitty litter, sometimes at the same time! If the rock quality were better, this aesthetic route would climb much better.

When looking up at the Second Buttress of the Buick Rocks, Energon Cube follows the colorful flakes trending right across the face, on the right side of the prow. Most of the climbing follows corners and cracks along the flakes, eventually passing around a bulge to the right at the top. Begin with a right faceing corner at the foot of the buttress that immediately welcomes with untrustworthy flakes. Someone's ceremonial shrine sat the base of the crack 4/02, the first crux is stepping over the candles and offerings...perhaps an offering to the rock quality gods?

The climbing gets interesting as you leave two beautiful parrallel hand cracks (the best section of the climb) and pass a bulge on the right at the top. Here the rock gets a bit crumbly and disconcerting for the crux corner of the pitch, not that difficult, but questionable kitty litter always makes things more difficult for the mind...

You can set up a belay at some ledges at the top and scramble off the back of the formation, or better, hand traverse right out to the Unknown Face route and rap to the ground.

Protection

SR to 3.5

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