Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Todd Pett and Paul Hogan
Page Views: 727 total, 4/month
Shared By: Todd Pett on Dec 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

This is an enjoyable single pitch (80 - 100 feet) route that follows a line on the west side of the Entry Way Slabs formation immediately North of Buick Rocks. From the Buick Rocks turn-out, scramble approximately 50 feet to the northeast until you reach the west side of the Entry Way Slabs formation. The route begins approximately 10 feet to the right of the large boulder that lies next to the east side of the road. Climb up this face and traverse to the base of the shallow dihedral. Follow the dihedral to the base of the obvious steep dihedral split by a 6" - 8" crack (crux). Jam or layback for approximately 20 feet to the belay stance.

Descent is a walk-off down and to the east until you reach the first Buick Rocks formation and follow the obvious trail back to the turn-out.

Protection

Cams or stoppers up to approximately 2" up to the base of the crux corner then large hexes or cams up to 6" - 8" to protect the dihedral.

Photos

- No Photos -
Dan Howell
Northglenn, CO
 
Dan Howell   Northglenn, CO
 
Decent climb though still a bit dirty. #5 Camalot works perfect up high. Feb 6, 2010