All Locations > Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > N Fork of the S… > Longmont Reserv… > Buick Rocks & Hitler'…

Initial Route

Name: Initial Route
Rating: 1.8

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

L › R R › L A › Z

	Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Pontiac T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Yo Mama, Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad
FA:	George Bracksieck & Doug Hill, 1975?
Page Views:	1,950 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Scott Conner on Feb 16, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: No longer closed! Details

Due to floods, this area was unfortunately closed in 2014

Description

This enjoyable 2 pitch route is on the southwest face of Hitler's Sex Life. It doesn't appear to get climbed much. The route begins beneath the low point/left end of the horizontal seam. Pitch 1 is about 50% traverse.P1. Work up into the seam and follow it up and to the right until it ends at an A-shaped slot with a shallow vertical crack. Follow this crack up (crux) about six feet to a sloping ledge. Be sure to place a piece here to protect your follower from a BIG swing, and continue farther right about 15 ft. to a nice belay. (~150ft) P2. Go straight up shallow seams on difficult-to-protect 5.5ish terrain and continue up into an accute corner. Pull out of the top of the corner/roof and continue up a vegetated crack, through a blocky section and to the top. (~90ft)

Descent: Walk off.