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Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: George Bracksieck & Doug Hill, 1975?
Page Views: 1,328 total, 7/month
Shared By: Scott Conner on Feb 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

This enjoyable 2 pitch route is on the southwest face of Hitler's Sex Life. It doesn't appear to get climbed much. The route begins beneath the low point/left end of the horizontal seam. Pitch 1 is about 50% traverse.P1. Work up into the seam and follow it up and to the right until it ends at an A-shaped slot with a shallow vertical crack. Follow this crack up (crux) about six feet to a sloping ledge. Be sure to place a piece here to protect your follower from a BIG swing, and continue farther right about 15 ft. to a nice belay. (~150ft) P2. Go straight up shallow seams on difficult-to-protect 5.5ish terrain and continue up into an accute corner. Pull out of the top of the corner/roof and continue up a vegetated crack, through a blocky section and to the top. (~90ft)

Descent: Walk off.

Protection

Small to medium cams and a set of stoppers; long slings will be helpful to cut down on rope drag.
Addison
Boulder, CO
 
Addison   Boulder, CO
 
Really fun undercling traverse, BUT awful pro at roof crux on first pitch. Traverse alone deserves two stars... (#6 BD nut will fit into the crux like a glove). Aug 27, 2012
For what it's worth, which isn't much, I and Doug Hill climbed this in 1975... except that we continued up to the top of the upper, prominent, left-facing, left-leaning dihedral and then right, up the crack in a groove on the summit "ridge." Jul 13, 2012
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
I managed to lead this as one 60m pitch but it barely reached. I'm not sure I would recommend doing it as one pitch. The rock quality definitely deteriorates toward the top. Mar 6, 2005
This route is more like a one star in my mind. It has lots of lose gravely sections. The traverse pitch is probably the only worthwhile pitch on the route. It also feels a bit harder than 5.7. Dec 13, 2003