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Initial Route
5.7,
Trad,
Avg: 1.8 from 11
votes
FA: George Bracksieck & Doug Hill, 1975?
Colorado
> Lyons
> St Vrain Canyons
> N Fork of the S…
> Longmont Reserv…
> Buick Rocks & Hitler'…
Access Issue: No longer closed!
Details
Due to floods, this area was unfortunately closed in 2014
Description
This enjoyable 2 pitch route is on the southwest face of Hitler's Sex Life. It doesn't appear to get climbed much. The route begins beneath the low point/left end of the horizontal seam. Pitch 1 is about 50% traverse.P1. Work up into the seam and follow it up and to the right until it ends at an A-shaped slot with a shallow vertical crack. Follow this crack up (crux) about six feet to a sloping ledge. Be sure to place a piece here to protect your follower from a BIG swing, and continue farther right about 15 ft. to a nice belay. (~150ft) P2. Go straight up shallow seams on difficult-to-protect 5.5ish terrain and continue up into an accute corner. Pull out of the top of the corner/roof and continue up a vegetated crack, through a blocky section and to the top. (~90ft)
Descent: Walk off.
Protection
Small to medium cams and a set of stoppers; long slings will be helpful to cut down on rope drag.
[Hide Photo] Crux - first pitch.
[Hide Photo] Good look at the entire route. Second pitch goes through the cleft right of the large slanted roof.
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO