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Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,255 total, 12/month
Shared By: Scott Conner on Feb 16, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

This is a very fine route. The rock is the second small buttress to the left of Hitler's Sex Life, identified by a steep slab that is slightly tilted to the right, and about 100 yards up the loose trail from the road. Four well-spaced bolts lead up and right on crimpers to a chain anchor. The first bolt is a bit off the deck and is a tip-toe reach from the stance (for me at 6'1").

Descent: I ran the rope through the anchor and lowered off, but it might be best to belay from the top and walk off to avoid rope drag. Also, the route would have to be climbed twice to clean it so keep this in mind.

Protection

4 quickdraws.

Photos

George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
This is a great winter route as it gets lots of afternoon sun. Short route but very high quality. Mar 6, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.10a
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.10a
It is possible to clean from the anchors, it just takes a little work. One of the jugs to the left of the first bolt creaked a little. Be careful yarding on it before you get the first clip. Apr 17, 2004