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Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 829 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Dec 1, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

This short sport route is on the second buttress of Buick Rocks, ie above and left of Hitler's Sex Life formation (which is lower on the hillside to the right) and the right of the two Buick Rocks. This line is high on the right side (SW) of the second buttress, between two trad lines Pooh Belly (5.7 on the left) and Kiss Face (5.10b? on the right). A few tricky moves off the ground are protected well by the first bolt, but the climb remains fairly sustained through the third bolt.

Protection

Four or five bolts to two bolt anchor.

Photos

goatboywonder Patrick  
  5.10c
I agree that it felt a little harder than 10a, especially compared to Green Slab (9+). Then again, I also did it in a light rain. Opening moves are thin and getting the feet over the first roof was fun. Aug 13, 2009
Kat A
Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
Kat A   Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
 
A fun route - especially the beginning moves. The middle section has a reachy move which is easier for tall climbers, much harder for short climbers - which might explain the differences in ratings. Jul 15, 2007
Umph!
  5.10c
Umph!  
  5.10c
Hubbel (Classic Rock Climbs Lyons Area) shows this as 10c/d, I'd say 10c. I really liked this route - a low crux that's kinda tricky leads to nice, sustained movement to a two-bolt rap. Oct 13, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
  5.10c
Matt Juth   Evergreen
  5.10c
The route seemed a little more difficult than 10a. It was raining at the time, so that might have contributed. Apr 12, 2004