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> Buick Rocks & Hitler'…
Civic Minded
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life
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Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pontiac T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yo Mama, Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,265 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Gabe Anderson on Apr 19, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
To reach this climb, park at the Buick rocks/Hitler's sex life area. Scramble east to the base of the southern Buick rock. This route climbs the main crack system of the front of the rock. To the left of a fairly blank face find a left facing corner. Climb 20 feet to a ledge on some loose rock. Once there squeeze up a right angling off width for 25 feet to a small sloping ledge. Use a few face holds to get back into the now right facing corner. Watch for loose rock here. Climb directly toward the summit up the shallow crack or veer left for some harder to protect face climbing. Avoid climbing directly to the summit, which consists of two large blocks leaning against each other. Instead belay in the space underneath them. To descend, scramble east up 4th class rocks and then south to a descent gully. This route is not run out and has several good stances for rests, but be careful of a few spots of loose rock.
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