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Routes in Buick Rocks and Hitler's Sex Life

Beamer Up Scotty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buick, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Civic Minded T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Energon Cube T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Green Slab S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Initial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pooh Belly T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yo Mama Osama T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 728 total · 4/month
Shared By: Matt Juth on May 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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CLOSED for 2014 Details

Description

This is the wide crack next to Pooh Belly (two left of the Unknown Face).

It offers steep jamming and good pro,with some loose feet up the second buttress. The Hubbel guide lists the climb at 5.8. I thought it was at least 5.9. Maybe I was wimpy that day, but it felt fairly tough compared to what I was expecting.

Walk off...

Protection

Standard with a larger piece.

Photos

Dan Howell
Northglenn, CO
  5.9+
Dan Howell   Northglenn, CO
  5.9+
Very stiff 5.9. Second time I've climbed it and both times felt it was VERY hard for a 5.9. Make sure you are solid on overhanging wide hands before leading this.
Feb 6, 2010
Andrew McLean
Colorado
  5.9+
Andrew McLean   Colorado
  5.9+
This ain't no 5.8. I also found it to be a stiff 5.9. The moves are all there and the feet are good. Crux was pulling around the lip exiting the hand crack. A bit awkard for myself.

Awesome route. Feb 6, 2010